Beginner's Guide to New Balance 550
Everything you need to know about the Steven Smith-designed basketball silhouette.
History of the New Balance 550
Released in 1989 as a basketball silhouette, the New Balance 550 returned to the forefront of the cultural conversation as a lifestyle sneaker in the early 2020s. Designed by legendary footwear architect Steven Smith, the 550—initially known as the P550 Basketball Oxford—was positioned as a low-top alternative to the brand’s 650 high-top (itself a successor to the basketball-focused 480 released in 1983).
According to Smith, the 550’s side foot strip (or “sway bar” as he refers to it) was his favorite component of the shoe, inspired by the world of automobiles and incorporated to stop players from rolling over the midsole during directional plays. Other specifications include pivot circles on the outsole and tip saddle foxing, the latter a design hallmark of Smith’s days with New Balance.
The 550 experienced limited success at the time of its debut amid competition from the likes of Nike, Air Jordan and Reebok. And despite making small inroads in Japan and the UK, the shoe quietly faded out of public consciousness. Enter Teddy Santis.
In 2018, the founder of Aimé Leon Dore and New Balance's Creative Director of Made In USA discovered a photograph of the 550. Enamored by the design, Santis set about reviving the sneaker, sourcing an original model from a Japanese collector and rebuilding a new pair from scratch with modern materials. Reintroduced to the world toward the end of 2020 through a creative partnership with Aimé Leon Dore, the updated 550’s retro-inspired sensibilities and premium build proved so successful that New Balance used the momentum of the collaboration to start the next chapter of the 550’s long history.
Since the silhouette’s revival, it has been reworked by a number of iconic brands and designers, including Comme des Garçons, size? and Joe Freshgoods, among others outlined below. Additionally, the 550 counts Justin Bieber, Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner as fans.
Different Types of New Balance 550s
The New Balance 550 is traditionally viewed as the low-top version of the 650 (another Steven Smith design that was also revitalized by Santis). The shoe is available in men’s, women’s, kids and unisex sizes, as well as limited-edition versions that make use of advanced materials such as Cordura.
Best New Balance 550 Colorways
The New Balance 550 is normally associated with an all-white canvas adorned with secondary colors. Notably, the first Aimé Leon Dore collaboration accented the silhouette with hits of navy, grey, red and green. Since then, the shoe has been dressed in a broad array of tones. Below is a guide to some of the most notable.
‘White Green’
The 550 'White Green' sees forest green accents adorn the raised “N” logo, tongue, collar and outsole. A suede overlay at the toe provides a subtle pop against the white base.
‘Oreo’
The two-tone 550 'Oreo' design sees the sneaker clad in black and white, with subdued tonal elements on the midsole and tongue.
‘White Grey’
Dipped in monochromatic white with a grey outsole, the 550 'White Grey' is one of the most understated colorways the silhouette has ever been produced in.
‘Beige Vintage Indigo’
Indigo pebble grain leather on the "N” logo and collar distinguish the 550 'Beige Vintage Indigo,' referencing the texture of real basketballs.
‘Brown’
The Aimé Leon Dore x New Balance 550 'Brown' incorporates a cracked leather “N” logo in the namesake hue and an intentionally yellowed midsole that furthers the sneaker’s weathered aesthetic.
‘White Team Red’
New Balance brings bold red and black accents to the forefront on the 550 ‘White Team Red,’ recalling the signature colors of Michael Jordan’s iconic sneaker series.
Features of New Balance 550 Shoes
Leather Upper
The 550 is constructed with durable leather components across the upper. A shrunken “N” logo on the quarter panel lends to the sneaker’s retro aura.
Micro-perforations
Perforated profile panels assist foot ventilation while enhancing the retro aesthetic.
Woven Tongue
A basketball graphic is featured on the 550’s woven tongue tag. This graphic is typically used as a creative canvas for collaborative partners.
Foam Midsole and Cup Sole Base
A traditional cup sole for step-in comfort anchors the 550, supported with an exposed EVA wedge on the medial sidewall.
Rubber Outsole With Flex Grooves
The rubber outsole features flex grooves that assist traction and help avoid slippage.
Ortholite Insoles
Double-stacked Ortholite insoles provide superior cushioning compared to typical insoles and they can also be removed.
Popular Collaborations for New Balance 550s
New Balance 550 x Aimé Leon Dore
The collaboration that ignited the 550. After Aimé Leon Dore’s Teddy Santis revived the retro basketball silhouette, New Balance followed up with their own program of general-release colorways. The revitalization of the 550 came after Santis had already worked on other models such as the 997, 990v2 and 990v5.
New Balance 550 x Rich Paul
Basketball super agent and Klutch Sports Group owner Rich Paul joined forces with New Balance for the launch of Klutch Athletics, a division of New Balance celebrating sport, culture and community. To cement the creative partnership, New Balance debuted a Rich Paul-designed 550 clad in tones of navy, sail and baby blue.
New Balance 550 x Comme des Garçons
New Balance and Comme des Garçons’ long-running partnership stretches back to the early ’00s, with the Boston brand a regular feature in CDG designer Junya Watanabe’s eponymous collections. In 2023, the CDG Homme sublabel unveiled a minimalist refresh of the 550, leaving the original design intact with “CdGH New Balance” branding imprinted on the rear.
New Balance 550 x size?
British sneaker retailer size? refashioned the New Balance 550 with orange accents for the Ivy League-inspired ‘College Pack’ in 2021. The next year, the pair teed up a trail-ready capsule comprising three 550 silhouettes, each reimagined with Cordura fabric and dressed in earthy tones.
New Balance 550 x Joe Freshgoods
Chicago-based designer Joe Freshgoods teamed up with New Balance for the ‘Conversations Amongst Us’ collection that looks to dialogue with the Black community. In addition to apparel, the campaign also inspired sneakers, including a cream iteration of the 550 with the campaign name imprinted on the insole.
New Balance 550 x AURALEE
Renowned for his luxurious, deceptively intricate basics, AURALEE designer Ryota Iwai remastered the 550 with a subtle weathered aesthetic in 2021. The silhouette features glazed leather and distressed edges, complete with an intentionally yellowed midsole.
New Balance 550 x United Arrows
Japanese brand United Arrows brought a measured design language to the New Balance 550 towards the end of 2021. Shunning the old school, collegiate-style color blocking that has become synonymous with the shoe, a muted palette of white and grey interacts across the upper and midsole.
New Balance 550 FAQ
Who designed the New Balance 550?
Steven Smith designed the New Balance 550. Smith also designed New Balance’s 574, 997 and 1500 silhouettes.
When did New Balance 550 first come out?
The New Balance 550 first released in 1989. New Balance reissued the silhouette for the first time in 2020.
When is the next New Balance 550 release or restock?
The New Balance 550 releases frequently in new colorways. Recent and upcoming 550 releases include:
How do New Balance 550s fit?
The New Balance 550 fits true to size. However, people with wider feet may prefer to take half a size up.
What sizes do New Balance 550s shoes come in?
The New Balance 550 comes in men’s, women’s and kids sizes. For men, sizes range from 1 to 20 (US), while women's sizes range from 3 to 15 (US). Kids sizes vary from toddlers to little kids to big kids.
Are New Balance 550s comfortable?
The New Balance 550 is a comfortable lifestyle shoe suited for all-day wear.
What are New Balance 550s good for?
The New Balance 550 is an ideal lifestyle shoe suited for all-day wear. Despite its basketball heritage, material technologies have rendered the sneaker obsolete for playing sports in. For performance basketball sneakers, consult our curated guide to the best basketball shoes of 2023.
What to wear New Balance 550s with?
The 550 is a slightly bulkier lifestyle shoe that draws similarities to Nike’s Air Force 1. It can be worn with streetwear staples such as jeans, sweatpants and shorts, or paired with formal styles like suit pants.
What shoes did Taylor Swift wear to the Kansas City Chiefs game?
Taylor Swift wore the New Balance 550 ‘White Team Red’ in attendance for the Kansas City Chiefs home game against the Chicago Bears on September 24, 2023.
How to clean New Balance 550s?
The New Balance 550 responds well to most specialist cleaning agents. For more information, consult our How to Clean Sneakers Guide.
Where to buy New Balance 550s?
You can buy New Balance 550s on GOAT. Explore a curated selection of New Balance 550s here.
How to tell if New Balance 550s are fake?
GOAT uses machine-learning technology, digital authentication, in-hand verification or a combination of these methods to determine if sneakers are fake or real. By doing so, we seek to ensure the New Balance 550s you purchase are both authentic and as-described.
When is New Balance Grey Day 2024?
While Grey Day has historically been a one-day event, Grey Day 2024 will last the entire month of May this year.
What sneakers are releasing during Grey Day 2024?
- Wmns 550 'Grey Day' — 05-01-2024
- Wmns 574 'Grey Day 2024' 05-01-2024
- Wmns 574 'Grey Day 2024 - Concrete' 05-01-2024
- Coco CG1 'White Eclipse' – 05-08-2024
- 1906R 'Grey Days' — 05-17-2024
- WRPD Runner 'Grey Days' — 05-17-2024
- District Vision x New Balance SC Elite v4 – 05-23-2024
- Fresh Foam Audazo Numeric — 05-24-2024
- KAWHI 4 'Grey Day 2024' — 05-25-2024
Related Articles: New Balance History, Buying Guide to New Balance, New Balance Size and Fit Guide.