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Beginner's Guide to New Balance

From the 574 to the 990, an overview of iconic New Balance silhouettes.

AUTHOR: GRAEME CAMPBELL PUBLISHED: September 9, 2022 UPDATED: AUGUST 5, 2024
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New Balance Origin Story


It started with a chicken claw. Based out of Boston, Massachusetts, New Balance founder William J. Riley believed the bird’s triple-pronged anatomy helped it achieve a perfect walking equilibrium. This thought inspired the brand’s first arch support, tailored to each foot and designed to maximize balance during weight transfer. In 1956, Riley’s daughter and her husband acquired the company and applied the technology to the “Trackster,” the world’s first running shoe to feature a ripple sole and to be produced in various widths. 

Over 60 years later, New Balance remains an influential force not only in footwear, but across performance and lifestyle. Widely considered the progenitor of the “dad shoe” aesthetic thanks to a run of iconic silhouettes by Steven Smith and Stephanie Howard throughout the ’80s and ’90s, the chunky, thick-soled sneaker revival over the last decade has helped reposition the brand at the forefront of style. 

Unlike many of its contemporaries, New Balance retains many quirks that contribute to its cult-like following, such as the brand’s naming convention. The system is broken down into three parts, designating gender, performance series and colorway. Meanwhile, a willingness to work with outside collaborators, from rising labels like Aimé Leon Dore to established stores such as Bodega, has brought the famous “NB” logo to a new generation of fans.

Below, a guide to New Balance and its sneaker models.


New Balance Silhouettes


New Balance 827


Released in 1997, the 827 was built for long-distance running. In recent years, the silhouette has experienced a cultural revival due to its nostalgic aesthetic, defined by heavy paneling, disparate lines and suede accents. Proprietary ABZORB cushioning in the midsole ensures a comfortable ride, replete with a TPU web for midfoot stability.


New Balance 992


Rolled out as part of the premium Made in England program, the New Balance 992 was released in 2006 to mark the brand’s 100th anniversary. Cemented in history as part of Steve Jobs’ unofficial uniform, the running shoe is renowned for its suede uppers and pronounced ABZORB midsole.


New Balance 990 


New Balance released the 990 in 1982 as part of its premium Made in USA line, blending craftsmanship with innovative performance technology. Various iterations of the shoe have been released since then, classified by the “V” (short for “Version”) affixed to each model. The upper is composed of lightweight suede and mesh overlays, supplemented by 360-degree reflective accents. Underfoot, an OrthoLite cushioned insert and ENCAP midsole provide enhanced support.

The New Balance 990 series includes: 990v1, 990v2, 990v3, 990v4, 990v5 and 990v6.


New Balance 574


Arriving in the late ’80s, the 574 brought New Balance’s road and trail-running technology to a low-top design. The silhouette is marked by clean lines and a minimalist design language, fusing a suede and mesh upper to an ENCAP midsole, encasing EVA cushioning and a durable PU rim.


New Balance 997


The 997 was overseen by former New Balance designer and sneaker legend Steven Smith. Arriving in 1991, the versatile silhouette combines suede, mesh and pebbled materials on the upper, propped up by an ENCAP midsole with a TPU heel counter.


New Balance 998


First introduced in 1993, the 998 arrived as a 2.0 update of its 997 predecessor. The layered upper employs a mélange of elements, including suede, leather, canvas and high-vis. The silhouette rides on an ABZORB midsole.


New Balance 1500


Debuted in the late ’80s, the Steven Smith-designed New Balance 1500 was then-President Bill Clinton’s running shoe of choice. The silhouette is marked by sharp lines and paneling, combining a mesh, leather and suede upper with an ENCAP midsole. 


New Balance 850 


Designed by New Balance sneaker luminary Stephanie Howard, the 850 marked an aesthetic departure for the brand. For the first time, the silhouette arrived sans “N” logo on the quarter panel, instead converging mesh and leather elements across the upper. Straddling performance and lifestyle, the shoe incorporates Rollbar, C-Cap and ABZORB technology in the midsole for maximum stability.


New Balance 860


The New Balance 860 series has spawned over 10 incarnations, often favored by runners because of its breathable mesh upper execution and stable construction. Recent models of the shoe have adapted the brand’s latest proprietary technology, including FuelCell foam and Fresh Foam cushioning.


New Balance 991


Defined by its diminutive “N” logo, the Made in UK 991 returned in 2010 following a halt in production. Mesh is interlocked with suede and leather overlays throughout the upper, built upon a midsole with ABZORB cushioning.


New Balance X90


Pairing nostalgic style cues with innovative running technology, the X90 is one of the newer additions to the New Balance footwear stable, adhering to a more streamlined look than some of its siblings. A suede and mesh upper is attached to a REVlite midsole that provides responsive cushioning without adding excess weight.


New Balance 247


New Balance debuted the 247 at the end of 2016, converging heritage sensibilities with modern running technology. The mesh upper contours to the foot like a sock, supported by a REVlite midsole that provides extra spring.


New Balance 327


A clash of retro and contemporary, New Balance’s 327 combines cues from the 320, 355 and Supercomp silhouettes. The brainchild of designer Charlotte Lee, “N” branding is blown up on the side panel, while a tread outsole runs from the sole of the shoe to the rear mustache.


New Balance 237


Lifting style elements from ’70s-era runners, the New Balance 237 amalgamates mesh and textiles for a multi-textured upper. The silhouette is steered by an EVA midsole with an elongated wedge that extends past the heel.


New Balance 550


New Balance reestablished its 550 silhouette with the help of Aimé Leon Dore in 2020. Originally designed for the basketball court in 1989, the low-top sneaker marries micro-perforated leather paneling with suede overlays. Underneath, the silhouette sits on a rubber cupsole with soft EVA cushioning.


New Balance 996


A hybrid sneaker engineered for both casual and intensive sports activities, New Balance presented the 996 in 1988. Up top, the silhouette reveals a mesh tongue, side panels and toe with supple suede overlays. ENCAP cushioning underneath is encased with a TPU rim for durability.


New Balance 9060


Inspired by the futuristic aesthetics of the Y2K era, New Balance’s 9060 sneaker brings together elements from iconic 99X models. The silhouette applies the 990’s sway bars to the upper, while the tongue logo references the original 991 lace jewel. Underfoot, the sculpted pod midsole features ABZORB, ENCAP and SBS cushioning. 


New Balance 530


The New Balance 530 debuted in 1992 as one of the era’s most complex performance running shoes. The style has since transitioned to the lifestyle space, ideal for urban exploration with ENCAP cushioning located at the heel and C-CAP cushioning under the toe. Reflective elements on the mesh and leather suggest a sense of aerodynamics.


New Balance 2002R


The New Balance 2002R is based on the 2002 Made in USA sneaker, which released in 2010. Brought back for 2020, the updated sneaker features reimagined paneling and a deconstructed sensibility. The silhouette is notable for acting as Salehe Bembury’s inaugural New Balance model in 2020 and as a canvas for JJJJound’s subtle interpretation in 2024.


New Balance 480


The New Balance 480 debuted in 1983 as the Boston label’s first-ever basketball shoe. The design was worn on the court by notable players including James Worthy and M.L. Carr, standing out on the hardwood with its clean lines and paneling. The sneaker returned to the forefront of New Balance’s footwear program in 2020, featured in NBA MVP and brand athlete Kawhi Leonard’s Jolly Rancher-inspired pack. In 2021, Comme des Garçons pattern master Junya Watanabe presented a minimalist black-and-white take on the 480 through his eYe imprint.


Iconic New Balance Collaborations


New Balance x Casablanca


Casablanca and New Balance first joined forces in early 2020, presenting a colorful reimagining of the 327 that gleaned inspiration from ’70s Italian sports and vintage automobiles. The pair then turned their attention to the 237 and XC-72 silhouettes, melding the French label’s luxury stylings with cutting-edge running technology.


New Balance x Levi's


After previously partnering on the 1300 and 327 silhouettes, Levi’s lent its Shrink-To-Fit denim for a remix of the 990v3. The shoe arrived in grey and blue colorways, fusing the iconic cloth tab with the “N” logo. In 2023, the pair teamed up for a two-piece sneaker pack celebrating 150 years of the iconic 501 jeans, including the 580 in ‘Grey’ and ‘Beige.’


New Balance x Junya Watanabe


Japanese innovator Junya Watanabe is a perennial creative partner for New Balance, bringing a restrained design language to various silhouettes rather than the avant-gardism for which he is known. The 574 is a frequent source of inspiration for the designer, including a high-top version replete with a faux-shearling trim.


New Balance x Aimé Leon Dore


New Balance enlisted Aimé Leon Dore to help reestablish its 550 silhouette in 2020. The New York label continues to apply its minimalist visual touch across a range of sneakers, from retro-inspired runners like the 993, 996 1800 and 827 to classic basketball silhouettes such as the 550 and 650R. Proving there’s more to the partnership than sneakers, the pair came together for a remix of the outdoor-ready Rainier boot in 2023.


New Balance x Salehe Bembury


Footwear designer Salehe Bembury has reimagined various New Balance sneakers with experimental textural elements and unorthodox design cues. Early highlights in the affiliation include a 2002R that boasts honeycomb-style mesh patterning and a 574 that incorporates a functioning whistle in the heel. The 1906R was a creative reference point for the Los Angeles-based designer in 2024, fired up in a blazing color palette of silver, red, yellow and orange across ‘Lava’ and ‘Magma.’


New Balance x Joe Freshgoods


Chicago-based designer and Don’t Be Mad founder Joe Freshgoods first brought his colorful design aesthetic to New Balance in 2020, teeing up a special pack consisting of two Valentine's Day-themed takes on the 992 and OMN1S. In 2022, the creative venture yielded an all-new silhouette, dubbed the 9060, and has since been followed up with effervescent takes on the Rainier, 610 and 990v4


New Balance x JJJJound


Renowned for its minimalism, JJJJound has refined several New Balance silhouettes since first collaborating with the brand in 2018. Neutral-hued tones are a recurring feature of the Montreal-based design studio’s work, an approach that underscores subtle remixes of the 990v3 and 990v4. In early 2024, JJJJound reunited with the brand for an understated interpretation of the 2002R

How to Style New Balance


New Balance sneakers are highly adaptable, appropriate for sports, streetwear and more formal looks. The brand’s functional aesthetic is suited to relaxed, wide-leg pants, as well as shorts and  premium calf-length socks.


Brands Similar to New Balance


New Balance’s peers include iconic sportswear brands such as Nike, adidas, PUMA and Reebok. In recent years, new competitors including Hoka One One have emerged, adhering to a similar maximalist design language.


New Balance FAQs

Who is the creative director of New Balance?

Joe Preston is New Balance’s president and chief executive officer, overseeing a vast array of departments, from running to skateboarding. Charlotte Lee is the brand’s senior footwear designer.


Streetwear designer and Aimé Leon Dore founder Teddy Santis was named creative director of New Balance's Made in USA line in 2021. 

Where are New Balance made? Are New Balance made in the USA?

New Balance assembles some four million pairs of shoes domestically as part of its Made in USA program, circa 25% of its annual output. The majority of shoes are manufactured in Asia, with some assembled at the Flimby Factory in England as part of New Balance’s Made in UK line. 

When did New Balance start?

New Balance was founded in 1906 in Boston, Massachusetts.

What are the New Balance upcoming releases?

Who started New Balance?

New Balance was founded by Irish immigrant William J. Riley.

How to tell if New Balance is fake? 

GOAT uses machine learning technology, digital authentication, in-hand verification or a combination of these methods to determine if sneakers are fake or real. By doing so, we seek to ensure every New Balance you purchase is both authentic and as described.

Where to buy New Balance?

You can buy New Balance on GOAT. Explore a selection of New Balance sneakers here.

What shoes did Taylor Swift wear to the Kansas City Chiefs game?

Taylor Swift wore the New Balance 550 ‘White Team Red’ in attendance for the Kansas City Chiefs home game against the Chicago Bears on September 24, 2023.

What are the most popular New Balance sneaker silhouettes?

1970s - 1990s

NB 320,   NB 740,   NB   1500,   NB   Worthy 790,   NB 996,   NB 577,   NB 997

2000s 

NB   990v2,   NB 992,   NB 574,   NB 576,   NB 670,   NB 998,   NB 993,   NB 480,   NB 580

2010s

NB   1226,   NB   997H,   NB 999,   NB 710,   NB   2002,   NB   990v3,   NB 860,   NB   1300,   NB   1600,   NB 530,   NB 991,   NB 850,   NB   990v1,   NB 496,   NB   990v4,   NB 791,   NB 585,   NB 575,   NB   990v5,   NB   Pro Court,   NB 247,   NB 995,   NB 770,   NB 373,   NB   1978,   NB   Vazee Sigma,   NB X90,   NB   Rainier,   NB 520,   NB   750 Sandal,   NB   997 Fusion,   NB   997S,   NB   OMN1S,   NB 210,   NB   X-Racer,   NB Fresh Foam Roav,   NB 608,   NB   1530,   NB 650,   NB   Cypher Run,   NB 801,   NB   Numeric 288,   NB 880,   NB   Numeric 255,   NB   Numeric 440,   NB 410,   NB 878,   NB 928,   NB FuelCore Nitrel,   NB   FuelCell Echo,   NB   Premus,   NB   MSCRC

2020

NB 550,   NB 327,   NB   2002R,   NB 452,   NB   Vision Racer,   NB 827,   NB   1080,   NB Fresh Foam Cruz,   NB 920,   NB 515,   NB   Niobium,   NB   Tekela,   NB 498,   NB   1700,   NB   KAWHI,   NB   Furon,   NB   Numeric 420,   NB   XRCT,   NB   Numeric 1010,   NB   CT Alley,   NB   Numeric 379,   NB FuelCell RC Elite,   NB   200 Slides,   NB Fresh Foam 950,   NB FuelCore Nergize,   NB   3201 Sandal

2021

NB   XC-72,   NB 725,   NB 237,   NB   Two WXY,   NB   5740,   NB   3000,   NB   Numeric 212,   NB   Lindor 1,   NB   574 YURT,   NB   Numeric 508,   NB   Numeric 272,   NB 696,   NB Fresh Foam Hierro,   NB   New-B,   NB   574T,   NB   BB9000,   NB Fresh Foam 1880,   NB 420,   NB   Minimus TR,   NB 501,   NB FuelCell SuperComp,   NB   FreezeLX,   NB 720,   NB 624,   NB   574 Court,   NB   X-70,   NB Fresh Foam Velo,   NB   Shando,   NB   Recovery,   NB   FreezeLX Turf,   NB   Audazo,   NB   Beaya,   NB   Numeric 306,   NB 508,   NB   996v2,   NB 425,   NB   Numeric 22,   NB   FreezeLX Box,   NB FuelCell Sigma,   NB Fresh Foam Beacon,   NB Fresh Foam LAV,   NB   TRNR,   NB   Lerato

2022

NB   9060,   NB   Two WXY V3,   NB   1906,   NB   KAWHI 2,   NB   990v6,   NB 302,   NB 610,   NB   Coco CG1,   NB   2002R Mule,   NB   997G,   NB   Burn X3,   NB 888,   NB   650R,   NB FuelCell Rebel TR,   NB   Two WXY V2,   NB   CRVN MOC,   NB 510,   NB   RC30,   NB   200 Slide,   NB 360,   NB   442v2,   NB   Rush

2023

NB   Fresh Foam BB,   NB Fresh Foam MRSHN,   NB Fresh Foam X Trail More,   NB Fresh Foam X Kaiha Road,   NB   996v5,   NB Dynasoft Reveal,   NB Fresh Foam X 840,   NB   KAWHI 3,   NB Fresh Foam X EVOZ,   NB   Flash,   NB Fresh Foam 574 Molded

 

When is New Balance Grey Day 2024?

While Grey Day has historically been a one-day event, Grey Day 2024 will last the entire month of May this year.

 

What sneakers are releasing during Grey Day 2024?