GREATEST: Alexandra 'MiniSwoosh' Hackett
At the intersection of sport and luxury, London-based designer upcycles nontraditional textiles and transforms them into sought-after pieces.
Alexandra Hackett, aka MiniSwoosh, aka ALCH (Alexandra Louise Champion Hackett) has been taking unwanted, discarded items and upcycling them into something new. Something unique. Something artistic. Something wearable. From Nike lanyards turned skirts, to Nike Dri-Fit socks turned furniture, MiniSwoosh has taken DIY to another level.
Where did the name MiniSwoosh come from and what is it?
I used to work at Footpatrol, a top-tier sneaker store in London. I was looking at shoes with my assistant manager, trying to think of a new name for myself and my Instagram. I think I picked up a Match Classic, and he was like, “You really love the mini Swoosh. Why don’t you call yourself that?” As for what it is, MiniSwoosh is my personal brand. It’s almost a digital folio of my appreciation of Nike.
Talk about the origins of ALCH and what it is today.
It started off as an Instagram account. I was doing this project where I would pick up material from the street every day, make something new out of it and post it on Instagram. It eventually caught traction. Today, ALCH is my menswear label. It focuses on the process of deconstruction and reconstruction, and working with non-traditional fabrications to explore the connection between design and functionality.
What is inspirational to you about repurposing?
I was always interested in questioning the functionality of sportswear and different textiles. It was a challenge to find something on the street, explore those properties and create something new and functional.
Do you have a favorite material to work with?
Years ago, I used to love Ikea bags, but that’s the hype now. I used to make outfits out of Ikea umbrellas. I’d be at Ikea every weekend buying bags. They’re made with polyethylene or polypropylene. Those are probably my favorite materials to work with.
What’s your least favorite material to work with?
It’s my least favorite but also my favorite: NASA space foil. I love it, but it’s incredibly difficult to work with because it tears. You have to stabilize every seam and stitch, but once it’s produced, the effect is amazing. I don’t work with leather or animal products— I guess that would be my least favorite. It just doesn’t feel natural, and also it’s unnecessary.
Have you encountered anything that can’t or shouldn’t be repurposed?
No. I’ve knitted with pasta. I’ve made bras out of bananas. [Laughs] I think anything can be turned into any fabric.
Got it. Can you speak on why you choose sportswear over performance gear, for example?
My aesthetic exists at the intersection of sport and luxury. I’m interested in how these genres overlap and inspire each other. For me, the best performance gear is highly technical. A huge amount of research and experimentation [went into making it]. You can buy a running short from any brand, but it’s probably not going to offer the same properties as a high end product. Those materials were developed with a purpose, specific production techniques were used, the design lines were considered—everything to make sure it’s the most functional design. That’s a completely different level. I would love to do performance wear, but you need access to technology and a high level of resources. That’s why it’s so great working with Nike. They have access to that.
I’ve knitted with pasta. I’ve made bras out of bananas. I think anything can be turned into any fabric.
Alexandra 'MiniSwoosh' Hackett
Right. Nike has crazy performance technology, like the LeBron 15 with the BattleKnit upper, flyknit fabrications, or their 3M and Gore-Tex. Do you ever think of using BattleKnit for something?
Yeah, it’s incredible. When the Flyknit Racer came out, I thought it was the most incredible design because—how can you make a shoe from one thread? I think Flyknit is, like, insanely divine.
Yeah, the Volt was my weakness. I think I got three pairs. So, why men’s sportswear? What drew you to creating men’s pieces versus women’s?
The products I make are unisex, but from a technical standpoint, it’s menswear pattern cutting. I wear a lot of menswear, and I prefer those cuts over most women’s sportswear, which is very slim-fitting and low-cut. It’s just not my vibe.
Will you do bigger production runs or will you keep things limited to keep it unique?
We work on a variety of production levels. We recently launched our first official wholesale line, but we also work with smaller production quantities as well as custom items, mostly just for artists.
You obviously work with the Nike logo a lot. Do you ever worry about over-branding?
I’m really into branding and how a brand’s entire ethos can be instantly recognizable with a graphic. That’s in part what drew me to Nike. Their logo is so iconic. Simultaneously though, I’m really interested in how you can displace a logo through reconstructing it as a new product, which is why I like working with pre-existing logos. I definitely think the industry will move further away from logo-mania. It always comes in waves. People want loads of logos and then they want nothing at all. Right now, I think we’re at a peak with logos.
Do you ever think about using other brands or materials to build new product?
Of course! I used to work with a plethora of branded products and materials. The scope of potential is huge. You can repurpose with literally any material in one way or another.
How important is it to you to spread the message of upcycling and recycling? Is it something you’re overtly or maybe even subconsciously trying to make people aware of through your pieces?
I think it started off as a subconscious message. I was just making pieces out of products I found on the street. Now it’s very much a conscious decision. It’s hugely important for brands and designers to consider the imprint and lifespan of the product they’re creating.
I think a lot of that goes beyond fabrics and textiles. It’s also about glues and adhesives.
Yeah, it’s tricky because there are so many different layers to creating something sustainable. A lot of brands focus on one element, whether it’s the material or the production—but there are so many layers, like the paper you’re wasting in your studio, etc. I almost exclusively work with cut-and-sew and try not to use any adhesives.
Do you think your pieces are function over form or form over function?
I think my pieces question the definition of functionality itself. I’m really interested in practicality and function, and exploring those concepts to make new products that offer a purpose that may not have been the original intention. They may offer some sort of sportswear functionality, but in a different way.
Sort of like the SF-AF1, taking a military inspiration into a classic basketball shoes—like how they used different types of materials on the upper and even used a paracord for the strap.
Yeah, I quite liked that. I always want to see things pushed to the next stage. Like, why don’t we make that entire shoe out of a parachute? Why don’t we do the entire production run out of old army tents, for instance?
One thing I love about your stuff is that you think differently. In today’s climate of copy and paste or “paying homage,” how do you view the state of streetwear today?
There is definitely a heavy influence of DIY. Everyone can customize their own products or make their own version of something. I also think it’s about accessibility. Everyone has access to these sorts of tools now, so the people who stand out have a specific skillset. I think there’s going to be a progression toward people learning a skill so they can stand out. For me, a lot of what I make is a personal exploration.
Where do you pull inspiration from and do you ever want to break outside the realm of sportswear for that?
Different textures and materials that I find on the street are probably the most inspiring. In terms of the types of pieces, I’m always going to be interested in sportswear because of its practicality. I wear sportswear every day because of its function and comfort. I’m quite textile-based in that respect.
Let’s talk about Nike and footwear. I read your favorite shoe is the Air Max Plus!
That’s my favorite. But my first pair of Nikes was probably an all-white Pegasus when I was a kid—although my love for the brand developed in my late teens when I was studying. Nike was the cool brand with the hype. You always wanted to have a pair of trainers. Now, I’m obsessed with the latest technology.
Speaking of, have you tried Epic React?
I’m wearing a pair now!
They’re great, right?
They’re amazing! I ran religiously in Flyknit Frees for as long as I can remember. I actually bought a pair of Zoom Flys, which don’t have a flyknit upper, and I’ve been running in them for the past six months. I need to go back to the flyknit upper. There’s something about it—the tight fit, the breathability.
I know the Air Max is one of your favorites, but I also see you rocking the Air Max Uptempo.
Oh, I do love an Uptempo! It’s the fact that it says “AIR” on the side. I remember seeing them and Googling “Nike shoes that say AIR” because I didn’t know the model name. You couldn’t get them for so long. When they were re-released, I bought four pairs.
Speaking of sneakers, what’d you take away from your time with Footpatrol?
I worked in sneaker stores for six or seven years. The last job I had was at Footpatrol. You gain so much from working retail and being the person behind the till. A lot of people forget about that perspective when they design shoes. That’s why my Vote Forward shoe comes in a colorway based on the end of a receipt roll. I was interested in exploring that retail process and giving a shoe back to the people who sell it to you.
Any fun sneakerhead stories?
One of my first shifts was working a Yeezy release. Before the doors opened, I had to fight my way just to get into the store. The industry’s changed so much. I always wanted to queue up and do an all-nighter, but that doesn’t happen anymore. That kind of loyalty—lining up for a shoe you really want, waiting all night, the satisfaction of getting it in the morning—that kind of passion for sneakers is overruled by resellers now.
I question that all the time. That’s why instead of posting some hype shoe, I’d rather tell the story behind it and make sure people understand that I don’t love it because it’s worth something, I just love the shoe.
Okay, another question. Historically, Nike has been a performance sports company, but you’ve been in the mix with Virgil [Abloh] and Don C. How do you feel about being a true collaborator from the non-performance side?
It’s pretty incredible. I’m so thankful for every opportunity. A couple years ago, I was working as a retail assistant in a Nike factory outlet. And now, here we are. [Laughs]
Social media has been key in your story. How do you utilize it now, and how has it affected you personally?
I think about it mostly as just a way to present my work. It’s important not to get too caught up in it all. I’m really interested in personal branding, like creating a brand for yourself and staying true to that. It’s important to me that my posts stay positive and streamlined.
What do you think of the rise of the “internet influencer”?
I think the more relevant question today is about the fall of the influencer. There was huge value placed on the quantity of followers a person had, but brands should be looking for accounts that have quality posts and quality followers. People want to have a connection to the people they follow; they want to feel like they’re part of that person’s life. When people are too big, it’s not relatable. Definitely the influencer appeal is still there, but I think it’s a fad that will follow in the footsteps of blogging. Blogging was huge a couple years ago, but it’s not a very relevant outlet anymore unless you have a skillset and really great content.
Let’s talk about your London Fashion Week show. How do you pair footwear with your pieces?
Personally, in my day-to-day, I always pick a shoe first, then pick the outfit. With ALCH SS19, I was fortunate enough to have been able to showcase some upcoming unreleased Air Max Plus models alongside the range. Seeing as it was our first show, I really wanted to use the TN—not only because it’s my favorite shoe but also because of its deep Australian roots. The Nike London team was super supportive of that and made it happen. Total dream come true.
Do you see yourself as more streetwear or more fashion?
There was a huge disparity between the two perhaps a few years ago, but now it’s pretty hard to distinguish. I think they’ve merged.
Any words on where you think streetwear and sportswear are, and how we can positively impact the culture going forward?
I think it’s about authentic brand partnerships and organic collaborations. Rather than force-feeding people stories that lack depth, I’d like to see collaborations with smaller people who really love the brand. Nurture those organic partnerships instead of collaborating with celebrities. So much of the industry is just hype. If you make a brand feel more accessible, you’ll reach consumers in a more natural way.
Wrapping up, what advice would you give to aspiring designers or textile makers?
Persevere. It’s very easy to give up, especially in creative industries. You’ll have a lot of disappointments and maybe not as many successes, so it’s very hard to keep going. Perseverance is the key to success for any brand.
Photography by Rachel Dray and Interview by Alex Wang