GREATEST: Yixi Chen
Blurring the lines of fantasy and functionality with the talent behind C2H4 and Chemist Creations.
“Soon, we’re all going to exist in video games,” says Yixi Chen over a WeChat call in Shanghai. The designer/director and founder of fashion imprints C2H4 and Chemist Creations pauses to ponder the not-so-distant future before adding, “We have to adapt as our reality changes around us.” To some, such a concept might seem ludicrous, but to the Shanghai-born creative, it’s another moment of inspiration. As a youth growing up between China and the US, film and music subcultures infatuated Chen, while chemistry lab sessions offered rational thinking that she would later revisit in the creative career she stumbled upon. Duality is at the core of Chen’s identity; C2H4 is a mantra that proves that fantasy and functionality can coexist.
While science and fashion may sit on opposite ends of the spectrum, Chen’s unique viewpoints have seamlessly merged the two together, pushing the boundaries of what’s deemed possible in fashion. 2017’s “Post Apocalypse” collection imagined what the world would look like after World War III by readapting surplus military fabrics in a postmodern context. Likewise, the “Zero Gravity” collection continued to explore the future by imagining what people will wear in 2082. This level of attention to narratives, as well Chen’s approach to blending traditional cut-and-sew techniques with high-tech touches has helped bring on collaborations with the likes of Nike, mastermind JAPAN and Kappa to name a few.
Critics have described her aesthetic as a marriage of Mad Max and Ghost in the Shell. Sneakerheads salivate over her creations for ASICS and Team Swoosh, while the likes of Vic Mensa and A$AP Ferg favor C2H4’s reflective pieces for Fashion Week parties. Even with all the noise surrounding her, she assures us that none of this phases her. “I don’t really get hung up on past projects. I’m always thinking about what’s next? How can we create something new and more exciting.” Continuing our dialogue, she begins to break down the backstory of her imagination-turned-career, and explains the different sectors that make up the international think-tank that is Yixi Chen.
Starting from the beginning, how did you decide on wanting to work in fashion?
Basically, I was in college in LA, at USC. I was studying drama, theater and cinema. I’ve always had a special infatuation with clothes, but I wasn’t particularly into fashion. I’ve always noticed the style sensibilities of streetwear, day-to-day clothes, costumes and looks of certain cultures like punk rock or hip-hop.
Were you a fan of music first or fashion?
What attracted me first was the visual communication of music, which led me into fashion. For example, I don't really listen to punk—the music doesn't attract me that much—but the visuals and styles speak to me.
And the attitude?
The attitude makes the visuals strong. That’s why I’m also drawn to film. The costume design attracts me.
I don't really listen to punk—the music doesn't attract me that much—but the visuals and styles
speak to me.Yixi Chen
Moving from Shanghai to LA, did the transition play a formative role in how it shaped your identity, and therefore your brand?
Growing up in China, we're not exposed to a lot of Western forms of creativity. Being in LA exposed me to a lot of diverse styles. On top of that, I’ll bury myself in these YouTube wormholes, digging through music videos. My entrepreneurship really started in LA where I established the brand. Over the years, the team in China got bigger, so we made our headquarters here in Shanghai. From the time I started the brand in 2014 until now, I don't think LA’s changed that much, but Shanghai has definitely changed a lot.
Right, China’s creative scene has grown exponentially in the last few years.
Back in 2014, it was really hard to find people who did fashion or art-related work. Right now, I feel like China is very emerging in every aspect of creativity and technology.
A big part of streetwear draws from youth culture. Looking back, what was your youth like?
Growing up I had lot of friends that are American-born-Chinese or went to America from an early age who had a different outlook from my local peers. For me, I grew up Chinese-based, but my style is Westernized. My personality and value system is all Chinese, but living in LA for many years exposed me to different things and gave me freedom.
What were you into before living in LA?
Before college, I was very much into my science classes. I liked math, physics and chemistry. I read books in physics by Einstein or Stephen Hawking. Meanwhile, I also loved Japanese anime and Nintendo games.
You're talking about the duality of East-meets-West, but also science and fashion, which are completely opposite subjects. Yet, you've managed to find a meeting point for these differing cultures and genres.
It's just weird because I think maybe most of the people in the fashion industry are from fashion schools. I always feel alienated. I used to try to find my identity, but now I'm not trying, because it's obvious there's no example for me. I don't come from fashion and I don't really come from a streetwear culture either.
So how would you describe the base of your ideas?
C2H4 is a combination of what I like. Some streetwear influences, some fashion influences, some influences from movies or games and also science or nerdy comic books. I stopped trying to categorize my influences; I’m tired of fitting into brand genres. I do me.
You attended USC, but then parted ways to do your own thing. What spurred that decision? It's quite a bold move to jump into the fashion landscape without really having a background.
I didn't think that much. It all started when I was trying to buy clothes, and realized the brands I really liked didn’t have a cut that fit me. So I started customizing and making my own clothes. At first, it was hard because I didn't study how to make clothes, design or how to approach the fashion business. Everything was self-taught.
What’s the rule of thumb?
Try something, if it doesn’t work out, then you need to switch the method until it does.
From that transition to making it on a Forbes “30 Under 30” list is a huge jump. What does this mean to someone who didn't initially set out in the world of fashion?
I just feel right at this stage in time. In this era, you don't really have to study in school to do one profession unless you're, say, a doctor. But for more creative work like music, fashion or film, these encourage a do-it-yourself attitude, or...
Taste?
Yeah, taste. And being sensitive to your feelings that’ll make your aesthetic. Like inspiration, where does that come from? You can’t study “taste.” It just comes from somewhere. Maybe it's from God? I think with this kind of stuff, people are born with it. Some people dream about doing music. That's how the higher ego of you or God is telling you that you're supposed to devote your life to this thing.
If you're enthusiastic or you're really interested in something then you'll go out of your way to make it a career.
Yeah. You will find a way to do it. There's so many resources online right now. You can literally find how to do anything on YouTube.
I stopped trying to categorize my influences; I’m tired of fitting into brand genres. I do me.
Yixi Chen
I think what's really interesting is that you're both an artist and a designer. How did these both differ in your creative process?
I'm not really a designer. I'm more like a creative director. I don't really have the skills of a designer. I think my role, right now, is to give direction, supervising staff and producing products. We have designers in our team that actually do the designs. I want to create a platform for them to use their talent to make their ideas real.
You've also recently started singing. I saw you launched a music video?
Yeah. Just a pop music project. I make music because I want to shoot music videos. My recent one is based on an American road trip where I travel through the outskirts of the city with my guitar. The video is released for my subsidiary brand Chemist Creations where I experiment with other creative mediums.
Can you break down the difference between C2H4 and Chemist Creations?
With C2H4, we always try to explore new silhouettes, new fabrics, more looking into the future and creating something that doesn’t exist. Chemist Creations is like my wild child for exploring Japanese culture styles, animation and TV commercials. Chemist Creations is very vintage but simple, too.
Do you guys think about new ways of incorporating technology, like augmented reality, Gore-Tex or already existing technology?
We do. We're trying to do what we can within our capabilities, but I think augmented reality is something that really fits fashion because it's just like fashion in the end. It's showing off your identity and showing off your aesthetics. Augmented reality makes it more fancy, so the clothes can blink and glow.
Each collection you do changes, from runway to collaborations. Some brands want to win the LVMH Prize while others want to just do runway in Paris. Is there an end goal for C2H4?
I think my goal is to make a full-length film featuring the garments that we designed. The whole thing will be produced by us. Or be part of a game where we provide designs visually. This will be very satisfying for me.
That'd be cool. You guys collaborate with bands like Kappa and mastermind JAPAN. How do you choose who to work with?
As long as it's a brand that has a strong identity. For example, Yeti Out has interesting events. It has a strong identity and is different from us. We want to create something new together. Innovation is key.
2020 was a wild year for everyone in the creative industry. How do you think 2021 will pan out?
To be honest, Shanghai is the best place to be right now. Things seem to be under control. We just have to count our blessings. If anything, I feel the pandemic has made everyone nicer. When mortality is being questioned, we find a new way of looking at life. Change is good. Change is always good.
INTERVIEW: ARTHUR BRAY
PHOTOGRAPHY: KEXIN