10 Maximalist Designers and the Color Theory Behind Their Work

Out with quiet luxury, in with bold self-expression. Breaking down the contemporary names leading the “more is more” movement.

WRITER: Joe Bobowicz

Despite a recent shift towards reduction and neologisms like “quiet luxury,” the fashion world has long held a special place in its heart for color—and plenty of it. Following a period of austere minimalism in the ’90s, the runway has been rife with maximalism throughout the 21st century, led by the likes of Alessandro Michele, Marc Jacobs and the people’s king of playfulness, Jeremy Scott.

An unabashed embrace of excess, major palettes have also allowed designers to channel joy and jubilation, exemplified by the deft skill of Marni’s color-blocked ensembles and Wales Bonner’s application of Pantone shades. Today’s class knows there’s more to color theory than what they’re taught in elementary school, drawing on the emotions, semiotic associations and memories attached to specific hues in the color wheel.

Below, a rundown of fashion’s most influential colorists.

Italian houses like Prada and Marni are known for their unique approach to colors, often incorporating unconventional hues and palettes in their collections.

Opulent details in Casablanca's collections arrive in the form of prints and vivid colors, while Wales Bonner's seasonal offerings frequently reference Black identity and diaspora through specific tones.

For Colm Dillane's KidSuper and Eli Russell Linnetz's ERL, technicolors and fluoro hues have become signatures in both collections and runway shows.

Gucci and Marc Jacobs are known for their maximalist approach, often conveyed through bold color choices.

Daniel Lee established an energetic shade of green as a Bottega Veneta signature in Spring 2021. The house has expanded its color wheel to include other vivid hues under the direction of Matthieu Blazy. A perennial enfant terrible, Jeremy Scott has continuously infused his collections with irreverent colors at both his eponymous label and Moschino.