GREATEST: Kenneth Cappello
From punk rock to partying, the photographer gets candid with PLEASURES' Alex James.
Kenneth Cappello sits down with PLEASURES co-founder, Alex James, to chat about moving in and out of NY, the punk rock scene and how photography became his career.
PUNK ROOTS
Where are you from?
I grew up in Houston, for the most part. I’m from Texas.
When did you move to New York?
In 1994. The December before, I drove to New York in my Honda Civic. It got broken into on Bowery. But I love New York so much. We were drinking beers—we were like 17. I thought it was the coolest thing.
I had one friend from Texas living in Fort Greene, Brooklyn, and I was like, ‘Can I stay on your couch for a few weeks until I figure this out?’ So I stayed. I couch-surfed. I actually slept in Tompkins Square Park a few nights and I kind of just figured it out. But I moved there in ’94 and it was the best time ever. I was way into music.
What was the scene like back then?
I was going to all kinds of shows. Man, in ’94, I was going to hardcore shows, going to riot grrrl shows. I saw Bikini Kill at CBGB’s, Huggy Bear at Brownies. Then, you know, going to a lot of rap shows, too: Wu-Tang, shit, Bobby Digital.
I was so into music back then—that’s what I thought I was going to do. Before I became a photographer, I tour managed the Unsane before I started working with David [LaChapelle]. But it was just about, like, going out and seeing bands, man, you know? And then you realize New York is made to fucking party, nonstop partying and shit. If I wouldn’t have left Texas…it would be a different story.
ARTISTIC DESTINY
When did you start shooting?
I got into photography very early, like 11. My aunt was murdered and my dad gave me her camera, Pentax K1000.
My adopted father gave me this camera when I was a kid and he was like, ‘See that thing in the middle? Just make sure that’s in the middle of the photo, and you’ll be okay.’ So I used to just spin the dial until the light meter was in the middle and I started taking photos, like stuffed animals and my animals. Then once I got into punk rock and skateboarding, I kept taking photos, but I didn’t really think about photography. I never really knew there was, like, an outlet for that. And then I saw an article about a T4 in Big Brother magazine.
I actually remember the article. It was awesome.
I was in the East Village working at Beauty Bar and these dudes would always come in, and I asked, ‘What do you guys do for a living?’ And they said, ‘We build sets for photographers.’ And I was like, ‘How much money you guys make?’ ‘One hundred and fifty bucks a day.’
I wasn’t a master carpenter, but I could use a drill. And, like, two months later I got a call and the photographer was David LaChapelle. And I ended up working for him. I was the art director’s assistant for three and a half, four years.
But I would have never got into photography or understood free thinking if I never stepped on a Variflex skateboard in 1986. Because that skateboard led me to getting another skateboard and going to the skate shop, and in that skate shop there were these dirty punk rockers and they were always listening to really insane music. I started going to skate ramps and helping them spray paint, and then the next thing I know, I’m a punk rocker going to punk shows. Which led me to be like, ‘Fuck this shit, I’m out of here.’
I still call myself a skater even though I haven’t stood on a skateboard in…but at heart. Thrasher magazine is my favorite magazine ever. It’s still my favorite magazine ever. It shaped my childhood; it shaped everything about me. I remember reading a Mark Gonzales interview in ’87, and I remember copying what he was writing on his grip tape, and wrote all over my shoes and cut my high-tops into low-tops. Fast-forward 15 years of hanging out with Mark in New York. It’s Notes from the Underground. It’s the first thing I go to in Thrasher, the music section.
The point is, if I never stepped on the skateboard that my mom bought me at Walmart with the nose guard, it would all be a different story. I’d either be a total fuck up or I would have four kids with a Titleist visor. It never left me.
It never left me, either.
I have people look at me and ask, ‘How do you look like you haven’t aged?’ And I’m like, ‘Oh, I’ve aged.’ But I never grew up. I’m fucking an adult, and I don’t feel like an adult. Every day I think, ‘When am I going to grow up?’ And I’m not. I got out. I’m just doing what I want to do.
SIGNATURE STYLE
When did you start to develop the style that you have today?
Photo style? I don’t know if you could look at my photo and go, ‘That’s me.’ When I moved to New York and started getting into photography, I worked for David, so that should be my example, but I was drawn towards the rawer shit: Juergen [Teller], Terry [Richardson], Wolfgang Tillmans.
And then, it was probably 1998, I saw a Marc Jacobs campaign that Juergen Teller shot on a Polaroid Spectra. Right when I saw that, I was like, ‘Okay, there’s no rules. I get it. I can do whatever I want.’ I think it was Sofia Coppola or somebody as the model—it still stands out in my mind. At that point, me and Ryan McGinley used to hang out at Cherry Tavern, photographers would hang out there. He wasn’t a photographer yet.
My style is influenced by the streets of New York and the photographers I knew around. Back then, I was just experimenting. Then you kind of find your groove and find what makes sense for your photos. I looked at a lot of old books. Also the light is different here—I didn’t love the light in New York. So I started shooting outside more and it’s also nice out. You’re influenced by your surroundings and by music.
And then, it was probably 1998, I saw a Marc Jacobs campaign that Juergen Teller shot on a Polaroid Spectra. Right when I saw that, I was like, ‘Okay, there’s no rules. I get it. I can do whatever I want.
When did you move out here?
I was kinda fed up in New York. I was on my last leg of partying, going hard, and I just decided, the weather’s nice here, party’s chiller here, let’s maybe do this.
I went on Craigslist, saw a house on Martel Avenue; it was $2,800 for a three-bedroom. This old lady was like, ‘Do you want it?’ And I was like, ‘I don’t know if my credit’s good. I can give you a year of pre-set checks, though.’ She’s said okay and handed me the key. I was kinda like, ‘Oh shit, I just rented a house.’
I’d go to The Village Idiot every night because it was on the corner of Martel and Melrose, and I didn’t know anyone and I’d eat there every night alone. I used to go to Starbucks. Steve Olson and those guys used to hang out there. I knew Curtis Buchanan a little bit and then I got kind of into the skate crowd and would hang out with those guys.
I slowly started bringing shit [from New York] and I was bicoastal for a while, and then I was like, ‘I don’t want to be in New York anymore.’ I packed, called a truck, drove my shit out. I just did it, you know? I knew I didn’t want to do cocaine anymore…
You get to that point in your life when you’re like, ‘You know what? This isn’t fun anymore.’
FIGHTING WORDS
I was angry. I was really pissed off. I’m a pretty aggro, intense person sometimes.
New York—I was feeling it. I wasn’t getting as fucked up anymore. People were walking too close to me. I was just feeling like the city’s collapsing on me and all my friends were still going out hard, hard, and I was like, yo. I got a personal trainer. I had never worked out in my life.
I was going to bring that up. When did MMA come into the picture?
I was into MMA for many years, like everyone was—early UFC, but I was really into it. I was really fed up with partying, and I don’t know what got me into working out but there was something because I went and bought a pair of dumbbells and brought them into my office on West Broadway and Canal.
I took kickboxing early in New York, ’96. Gavin [Van Vlack] who used to be in Burn was my teacher, and it didn’t stick. I wanted to stop partying. I wanted to get in shape. I was doing Krav Maga and then I did some jiu-jitsu with James Murphy from LCD Soundsystem. I got really into CrossFit for six years hardcore. And then I met my teacher. We made a dojo in my garage here. I started training with a lot of pro fighters. I still think about fighting every day.
It’s a part of your life. It’s awesome.
I think hand-to-hand combat is a beautiful thing because you have to protect yourself, and a lot of people don’t know how to. Growing up in a small town, I got into fights every fucking week defending myself, probably to get away from some dude. Eventually you just have to fight.
But I’m not a tough dude. I don’t want to fight anyone. But I am a dude, unfortunately, that runs into fires. Like if I see someone getting bullied or unfairly beaten up, I go. It’s bad. Some people run away when shit pops, I kinda go towards it.
Do you feel that your personality type and knowing those things about you, does that help everything? Especially with your photos and with your relationships, friendships, and your practice?
In the end, I’m a dude from Texas. I know sports, I can go into a death metal bar and talk about this bullshit. I can sit at a bar at an airport and talk to someone about the football draft. I can kind of roll into any scenario and make someone feel comfortable. And I think some people that are only into certain things can’t do that, right?
It probably makes you that much better of a photographer given all the people you’ve shot.
THE GREATESTS
What is your favorite shoot in memory?
Ever? Oh, man. I’ve definitely connected with some people like Erykah Badu. Me and her are both from Texas. I was trying to shoot her recently. I was texting with her from her number from forever ever ago. She never responded. Then one day, bloop, Erykah on my phone: ‘Hey, Ken!’ She calls me Ken. But she’s one that stands out with me a lot. Tricky was cool, too.
You’ve worked in and are a part of sneaker culture—
I sell sneakers for a living. I sell a lot of sneakers, and I’m not even a sneakerhead. I shoot mad campaigns.
Is there a way to tell it the way you want to, being the creative you are, for these advertisements?
100%. It sounds like it’s difficult, because I’ll get a reference from an art director who’s like, ‘Match this.’ I can’t match that. I need $7,000 more and a gaffer.
When I work with an athlete it’s a little different because I’ve got 13 minutes to shoot XYZ person. I know a lot about music. I’m into shooting aggressive men. I liked shooting fighters, like shooting football players. I like shooting bravado. I know a lot of dudes just want to shoot hot chicks—that’s cool, but I like shooting alpha men.
There was one photo. Me and Vlad [Elkin] were looking at it recently. It was the cat with Yachty.
That cat got eaten by a coyote. Vlad was at that shoot. He probably doesn’t realize he was there.
The magazine is called Greatest. Greatest albums? What do you always gravitate towards? I get in this Morrissey phase—I love him then I hate him.
I was hardcore darkwave trip for a long time recently. I’ve been putting on this Green Day record every day, I’ve been putting on Kerplunk every morning. It’s crazy.
Dookie just turned 25 years.
So Kerplunk must be 27. I’ll be honest, I haven’t listened to hip-hop right now because I just can’t. And I love hip-hop. Public Enemy blew my mind, when I heard a Slayer sample on a rap record. The Beastie Boys did it, too.
For me, it was also like when the Judgment Night soundtrack came out. It was just that first time, in your face, hip-hop artists and punk rockers were on the same album.
The House of Pain song is amazing. The Sonic Youth one is pretty cool. But that was back then when it was special. I’m not really into now to be honest. There’s no subculture. When I was a kid, you had your subculture. You had your thing and you were bummed out when someone found out about it. And now everything is just blown out from the get-go.
I’m not really into it now to be honest. There’s no subculture. When I was a kid, you had your subculture. You had your thing and you were bummed out when someone found out about it. And now everything is just blown out from the get-go.
Kenneth Cappello
Nothing is sacred.
Nothing’s cool. When your fucking favorite band signed to a major label, you were gutted. Green Day signed, Jawbreaker signed, I was pissed.
Did you go to any of the shows at the Palladium?
I went to the second one. I loved that show, but Jawbreaker is a top-five band for me. Ever. I had a blast.
Also I think Life Is Peachy by Korn is an incredible record. It’s so heavy and it’s so emotional. I don’t know when I heard that, but when it came out, I remember thinking I wasn’t supposed to like Korn. Even now, I’m not supposed to like Korn, but when y’all did that Korn [collaboration] shit, I was like, I want some of that Korn shit.
Getting to work with them, then being in Japan with them, doing a show out here in LA and just getting to know them, I was like, damn, these guys really created their own fucking sound, their own vibe, and you know, obviously a lot of things in their lives are different now. You know, people would try to bring up, oh, they’re born-again, yada yada. But that doesn’t take away from what they made.
They’ve also, like, sniffed cocaine off every and any woman. That era was wild. Munky was always the dope one to me because he just had these long dreads.
Honestly, it was super cool.
I was into it. I went to this weird PC riot grrrl show, and this kid was like, ‘You heard this band Korn?’ And I was like nah, and he gave me that first record on tape.
THE SAUCE
What’s your relationship with social or Instagram?
Hate it. I think social media is the devil.
I think there’s no point in fighting it. You either suck it up and delete it or you fucking ride the wave, and unfortunately in the job I do, I got to ride the wave. I tried to delete my shit a few months ago. I was told very sternly that it was a very bad idea because I’m making images.
It’s all a mirage. You can paint the picture however you want to paint it. And I think it brings a lot of negativity. You are constantly comparing your shit. Social media is a fucking bitch, man. But it also works for things. Like, would your brand be where it’s at without it?
Absolutely not.
It’s just the day and age we’re living in. You gotta either play the game or not.
Well, then, what is the picture that you feel like you’re painting since you haven’t deleted it?
You’re going to land on my page, you’re going to be like either I’ve heard of this photographer or I haven’t and either I like his photos or I don’t. It’s for work and that’s why I have it.
The social media thing is a hard one to swallow. Adults are fucking talking about, ‘You didn’t like my photo.’ You’re an adult. You’re talking about someone unfollowing you. Who gives a fuck?
Like I said before, I’m just not into now. Even with you guys, I love what you guys do, but sometimes I’m like, ‘Damn, they’re giving the sauce away.’ You’re giving the kids the coolness.
For me, it was like, I remember when I was a kid, like being in fifth grade, hanging out with the ninth graders. Those kids taught me. You can’t learn everything from the Internet. So it’s like, yo, I want to make a platform where we can put kids on.
No, I get it. It’s like the kid who gave me the [Korn] tape. Because everything y’all do is the shit I’m into because it’s the same references.
When you see kids that are trying to get into photography today, what kind of advice would you give them?
Do something else.
I mean, look, I love photography. If you love photography, you should take photos.
Talking about subcultures, it’s different now. Digital has really made it really accessible for people and it’s great. Everyone takes photos every day. People don’t think about this, but photography is more popular right now than it’s ever been in the world because everyone has an amazing camera on a thing they have in their pockets. I love the fact that everyone’s taking photos. That’s fucking awesome.
But it’s the Wild West out here in this photo land. Man, like shit’s changed, man.
There’s always trends. All of these hipster kids only shoot film and it’s so funny ’cause now I got rappers like, ‘You’re going to shoot digital?’ I hope these kids only keep shooting film because I’m going to take their job. I’ll get a job and ask, ‘Who was up for this?’ And I hear they refused to shoot digital.
I like photos out of iPhones, out of film cameras, out of digital cameras. I like fucking photo. It’s all the same shit. Different mediums. I don’t give a fuck if it’s off the fucking passport photo when you get off the airplane. I like Polaroids. I like photos. I don’t care what it’s shot on. I choose to shoot on what I’m going to shoot on when I shoot it.
I think kids should take photos and try it, man. Like, it’s cool, but I don’t think it’s easy. It’s not easy, man.
Photography by Alexander Bortz
In conversation with Alexander James