2021: The Year in Style
The sneakers, apparel, accessories and collaborations that made 2021 a landmark year for style.
2021 was remarkable for style. Brands, houses and designers debuted some of their boldest creations ever—despite COVID limiting social interactions for much of the year. In the world of sneakers, a thread of fluid, organic design ran through a number of releases, hinting at the shape of footwear to come. At the same time, OG silhouettes from the ’80s returned to the center of the conversation, reinforcing their importance in sneaker culture for a new generation.
On the apparel side of the spectrum, visionary collaborations brought together fashion institutions and digital franchises, laying the groundwork for personal expression in the metaverse. Runway shows returned to in-person formats for the first time since early 2020, reestablishing a tradition that some used as a point of divergence, like in the case of Balenciaga’s SS22 presentation told through a special short film with The Simpsons.
Across the board, innovative production techniques increased the possibilities of form, function and sustainability, while unprecedented cultural exchange through social media catapulted archival finds to the forefront of style in a way that hadn’t been seen since the explosion of vintage metal tees in the mid 2010s. Throughout it all, the achievements of the past stood out against a backdrop of a reassuring present and a promising future.
As 2021 comes to an end, we take a look back at the monumental shifts in global style, reflecting on the year's biggest developments to better understand what's to come in 2022.
Revisit the Year in Style below and shop the Best of 2021 here.
Virgil Abloh’s stature as a creative and cultural visionary grew by the day. Between his Pyrex Vision debut in 2012 to his final show at Louis Vuitton less than a month ago, Abloh rewrote the rules of style season after season. 2021 was no different, single-handedly reviving interest in Michael Jordan’s second signature sneaker with the Off-White x Air Jordan 2 Retro Low SP.
Our Sneaker of the Year, Virgil Abloh’s take on the AJ2 explored the importance of the past while asking questions about the present and future. Questions like, “What makes a shoe iconic?” and “How do you make stories from a previous era relevant today?” Abloh achieved this by reverse-engineering an original pair worn by MJ through three-dimensional scans—a first for Nike—while adding his signature concepts and touches.
A crumbling effect on the midsole serves as a nod to the shoe’s 1986 origins, made possible by today’s most innovative production methods. Jordan’s signature recalls the legend’s penchant for signing his own pairs and giving them away to kids after games, proverbially passing down the long-overlooked silhouette to a new generation. Plastic zip ties, Helvetica text and exposed foam channel Off-White’s unmistakable visual language. And despite all of these additions and modifications, the original Peter Moore and Bruce Kilgore-design remains intact.
The Air Jordan 2 is a silhouette that proved ahead of its time, becoming the first athletic shoe to truly bridge performance and luxury through made-in-Italy construction. Today these characteristics are nearly inseparable, a development driven by Abloh as much as anyone. It’s what makes the Off-White x AJ2 our Sneaker of the Year and a fitting final act for the most influential designer of his generation—a nod to the past while diving head-first toward the future.
“There is no fence. You're constantly dreaming. There's no fear. It’s raw creation.” Legendary sneaker design Steven Smith shared these insights with us when we asked him what it’s like working with Kanye West in a GREATEST interview earlier this year. There’s no doubt this mindset is what led to some of the year’s most far-out designs, from the Yeezy Foam Runner to the Yeezy NSTLD.
As an aesthetic sensibility, other designers have contributed their own language to this expanding vocabulary, including Demna Gvasalia, Matthew Williams and Salehe Bembury, with the Balenciaga X-Pander, Nike Zoom 004 and Crocs Clog, respectively. Circumstance or coincidence, all three designers are known Kanye affiliates and as powerful figures in their own right, we’ll surely be seeing more silhouettes that look appropriate for intergalactic travel from them and others well into 2022.
The Nike Air Force 1. The adidas Stan Smith. The Air Jordan 11. In the history of sneakers, few silhouettes can truly claim to be iconic. With each passing year, more and more new designs enter the fray, making it all the more impressive when contenders cut through the noise, earning accolades and fanfare for their wild inventiveness, progressive philosophy, timeless styling or a combination of all three. In 2021, a handful of brands seemingly accomplished the impossible, presenting a vision so pure in its expression that it’s difficult to imagine a future in which these silhouettes aren’t talked about as icons.
Kanye West and adidas’ claw-like Yeezy 450 both pushed the form forward and sparked controversy, two factors that all but guarantee Future Icon status. On the luxury side of the conversation, Dior’s Kim Jones came through with his own spin on the already iconic Converse Chuck 70, reinforcing the silhouette through utilitarian details, including a transparent TPU cage, enhanced rubber foxing and a diamond-grid tread. In collaboration with Virgil Abloh’s Off-White, Nike’s expansive 'Dear Summer' Dunk Low project built on an all-time classic with 50 unique iterations, proving that icons can be one-upped after all when approached with just the right amount of respect for the past.
Nearly 40 years since Michael Jordan’s first signature silhouette changed sneakers forever, Air Jordan continues to strike a chord with fans around the world. In 2021, the Air Jordan 11 extended its winning streak with the return of 'Cool Grey,' a colorway first released in 2001, while the Air Jordan 4 brought back the electric 'Lightning' colorway. Not to be outdone, the Air Jordan 5 'Raging Bull' reprised its role as a fan favorite, while the Air Jordan 6 'Carmine' celebrated the silhouette worn by MJ during his first championship season, revisiting the first AJ6 to feature contrast color blocking on the upper.
If 2020 was the year of indoor comfort, then 2021 will be remembered as the year of outdoor exploration. Performance style became a calling card for many brands as both classic and new silhouettes redefined the running category. Originally launched in 2013, Salomon’s XT-6 asserted itself through both understated and vibrant colorways, while Raf Simons refined the design of his Cyclon-21 silhouette. New sneakers helping reimagine the form included Balenciaga’s aptly titled Runner Sneaker, and Kiko Kostadinov and Brain Dead’s fusing of the Gel Nimbus 23 with the Lazerbeam on the ASICS Gel Fratelli. Japanese brands fragment design and sacai took a similar approach with Nike, blending elements of the LDV and Waffle Racer to create a hybrid silhouette made primarily of mesh and suede.
Although a mainstay of the sneaker lexicon since the series debuted in 1987, 2021 marked a resurgence for the Air Max line with a focus on two particular models, both designed by Tinker Hatfield. The year was highlighted by the return of both DQM’s famed 'Bacon' Air Max 90, a collaboration that dates back to 2004, and CLOT’s Air Max 1 'Kiss of Death,' a colorway first released in 2006. Amsterdam powerhouse Patta got in on the Air Max rally too, reconnecting with the Swoosh to turn the AM1’s signature mudguard into a playful wave pattern.
Ever since Kanye West became the first non-athlete to receive his own signature Nike silhouette, musician-led collaborations have dominated the sneaker landscape. 2021 was no different, featuring Pharrell’s N.E.R.D. x adidas NMD Human Race '20th Anniversary,' Skepta’s Nike Air Max Tailwind 5 'Bright Blue' and Billie Eilish’s Air Jordan 15. Upcoming artists were given the opportunity to bring their unique point of view to recognizable silhouettes as well, including Gunna’s 'Slatt' Bapesta Low, inspired by “slime love all the time,” while Diplo brought psychedelic references to the Crocs Clog and A$AP Nast kept things tasteful on the Reebok Classic Leather Legacy 'Sandy Taupe.'
Like the musicians above, artists were also given the opportunity to bring their perspectives to the world’s greatest silhouettes throughout 2021. Converse’s Chuck 70 received Keith Haring’s instantly recognizable animated figures, while Dr. Martens outfitted its 1460 silhouette in Jean-Michel Basquiat’s neo-expressionist symbols. Placing vibrant shades front and center, KAWS got together with sacai and Nike on the most colorful Blazer Low to date, and Dutch artist Parra once again lent his creativity to the Dunk Low.
Adding to the blend of cross-cultural collaboration, film franchises and viral streaming hits made their presence known on a number of silhouettes. LeBron James stepped out of his usual performance basketball range with a Space Jam-tinged Air Force 1. Home Alone and Where the Wild Things Are received their own themed homages through a Forum Low and Air Jordan 4, respectively. Nike and Gundam got together on a mecha-inspired Dunk High SB, while the Vans Classic Slip-On was seemingly discovered for the first time as Netflix’s Squid Game became a worldwide phenomenon.
Big on style, small on footprint, brands continued to prioritize going green throughout 2021. Efforts included adidas’ collaboration with Round Two co-founder and vintage curator Sean Wotherspoon, yielding both the Superstar 'Super Earth' and the Superturf Adventure 'Jiminy Cricket,' head-turning arrangements featuring 10% waste rubber and 90% sustainably sourced natural rubber. In Beaverton, Nike’s 'Move to Zero' initiative updated Swoosh basketball classics such as the Dunk Low and Blazer, each made with at least 20% recycled content by weight.
In 2021, collaboration as an artistic medium reached new heights, spanning even more unlikely pairings and moving the needle globally. Kanye West famously cut his teeth in the industry as a young retail associate at Gap, coming full circle in 2021 with the announcement and subsequent launch of Yeezy x Gap. The line’s puffer jacket cemented the silhouette as a social media status symbol.
Far from the mall, the world’s biggest fashion houses co-signed interests previously unacknowledged by established luxury, from The North Face x Gucci to Balenciaga x NASA. Supreme and Tiffany linked up on apparel and accessories, finding a middle ground that spoke directly to a new generation of consumers.
KAWS and sacai branched out from their footwear work, presenting a colorful sweater, while Nike worked with both Drake and Cactus Plant Flea Market independently. Comme des Garçons, a veritable collaboration machine, fused style references with Mikimoto on a silver necklace, and explored the imperfect beauty of patchwork alongside Supreme and Junya Watanabe.
This year’s most-wanted streetwear ranged from timeless classics and muted arrangements to unexpected collaborations and patterned standouts. Jerry Lorenzo’s Fear of God Essentials, Yeezy Gap and Kanye West’s Donda merch opted for understated shades, while Supreme and Nike delivered bold accent pieces through collaborations with Emilio Pucci and Cactus Plant Flea Market, respectively. On the slightly subtler side of collabs, BAPE’s partnership with Marvel’s Spider-Man covered the Japanese brand’s camo print in Peter Parker’s webbing, while Nike and Comme des Garçons PLAY paired their logos together for an eminently wearable capsule.
2021 brought about a sea-change in the ways the industry empowers designers to realize their ambitions as runway shows returned to in-person formats. Perennially straddling the lines of past and present, Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia balanced the house’s history with his own point of view as he unveiled a couture collection in complete silence. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons brought their vision to the runway for the first time, staging two simultaneous shows: One in Milan and the other in Shanghai. UK design incubator Fashion East continued to offer a platform to some of today’s most dynamic young talents, from the boldly sensual Maximilian Davis to the glitzy Y2K swimwear of HRH.
From the world of fashion institutions, a thread of bittersweet celebration emerged. Louis Vuitton’s fireworks-filled show in Miami paid tribute to late visionary Virgil Abloh, while Rick Owens tapped his wife and muse Michèle Lamy to lead a parade of gothic goddesses through the Palais de Tokyo.
Restricted to sharing fashion knowledge through social media for much of the year, Gen Z tapped into the archives to resurface directional styles from the past, informing some of 2021’s brightest moments. Helmut Lang, a source of inspiration for some of today’s most influential designers including Matthew Williams and Kanye West, struck a chord with a new generation through the resurgence of his legendary bondage pants. Classic rock iconography from the Rolling Stones found its way to a younger audience that doesn’t subscribe to the idea of genre norms via Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, while Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby’s punky Splatter Coat reclaimed its position as an icon of subversive runway style.
With much of the world emerging from various states of lockdown, 2021’s key accessories were a strong response to a year spent in leisurewear. Under the eye of maximalist Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s heritage monogram covered handbags, AirPods cases and more, while Supreme supersized its red bandana print on a range of travel goods. At Bottega Veneta, creative director Daniel Lee may have departed unexpectedly, but his legacy lived on the ubiquity of the house’s Padded Cassette bag spotted at fashion weeks around the globe. Kanye West, constantly in the media spotlight in the run up to Donda, raised questions around anonymity and celebrity through the frequent use of jet-black masks.
“Virgil Was Here”
It’s impossible to discuss style in 2021 without Virgil Abloh. Between founding Off-White, helming Louis Vuitton and spearheading dozens of high-profile collaborations, Abloh accomplished in a few short years what few accomplish in a lifetime. For many, “Virgil Was here” summarized the polymath’s countless contributions best, simultaneously paying tribute to his unique design language and his singular ability to impact every corner of culture. From his days as a style blogger writing for The Brilliance to his debut Pyrex Vision capsule to his final collection with Louis Vuitton, Abloh represented an entirely new kind of creative, one whose international point of view was unlike anything that came before and was visible in everything he touched, resonating deeply with millions around the world.
But perhaps what Abloh will be remembered for most of all is his generosity, kindness and humility, all characteristics known by those close to him and shared with the world in his wake. No matter how much success the Chicago-bred designer achieved, he was always willing to lend an ear and offer advice to established and upcoming creatives alike, influencing the direction of culture for generations to come. In this way, Virgil Abloh’s legacy lives on. We are forever grateful.