Creative Director CV: Daniel Lee
From Bottega Veneta to Burberry, everything you need to know about the English designer.
The Beginnings
Born in 1986 in the culturally diverse city of Bradford, West Yorkshire in the United Kingdom, Daniel Lee studied fashion at Central Saint Martins in London before cutting his design teeth with internships at Maison Margiela, Balenciaga and Donna Karan.
Afterwards, Lee joined CELINE as ready-to-wear director, forging a close working relationship with Phoebe Philo. In 2018, he was announced as the new creative director of Bottega Veneta, succeeding German-born designer Tomas Maier.
Hailed for revitalizing the label, Lee was awarded the British Fashion Award for Designer of the Year in 2019. Lee departed Bottega Veneta in 2021. In 2022, he succeeded Riccardo Tisci as Burberry’s chief creative officer.
Daniel Lee’s Influence
Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta
Upon joining Bottega Veneta, Lee described the house as a “sleeping giant.” He immediately set about integrating a new design language, imbuing heritage codes with a modern sensibility, describing his inaugural Spring 2019 runway show as “a celebration of freedom, self-expression and sensuality.” The collection was highlighted by expressive tailoring, deconstructed knits and square necklines inspired by Renaissance portraiture. It also presented a new, more boxy silhouette.
One of Lee’s most notable creative decisions was to enlarge Bottega Veneta’s iconic intrecciato woven handbags, supersizing the technique for a bolder and more direct visual statement. Moving away from his predecessor’s discreet savoir-faire, Lee said, “Bottega [was very new.] It started, I think, in 1966, so it’s at the opposite end of the spectrum to Burberry. Outside woven leather, there’s really nothing else that anyone knows. I saw it as a house of technique, so technique was the starting point, especially for accessories.” Lee opted to use the Bottega Veneta triangle logo sparingly, instead using volume and shape to develop his unique aesthetic. A bright shade of green, which has since been dubbed “Bottega green,” would become a hallmark of the Englishman’s tenure.
Lee continued Bottega Veneta’s rich tradition in handbags and accessories. The minimalist pouch from his debut show became an immediate It bag, followed up by the puffy Cassette design. Lee also had a hit with the Jodie bag—a revised, intrecciato weave version of the hobo bag—named after actress Jodie Foster. The biodegradable Puddle boots became a defining footwear style, worn by Kendall Jenner, A$AP Ferg, Lil Yachty, Justin Bieber and more. These were complemented by more formal silhouettes, namely the Lido and Stretch sandals.
As the role of the creative director evolved beyond clothing to shape brand image, Lee was credited with bringing an air of mystique to Bottega Veneta. At the beginning of 2021, the house’s Facebook, Twitter and Instagram accounts disappeared. Lee, meanwhile, set up a “digital journal” of interactive stills, film and audio, remarking that he wanted to establish a “more progressive and more thoughtful” virtual offering.
Lee formed a group of creative tastemakers who would regularly wear Bottega Veneta’s clothing and accessories, including rappers Skepta, Slowthai and Little Simz, who appeared in the Wardrobe “02” collection campaign. Lee moved away from typical fashion show locations, presenting his experimental Salon project in cities such as Berlin and Detroit.
Lee’s Wardrobe “03” collection in December 2021 would be his final for the house. In a statement, Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault remarked how “his singular vision made the house’s heritage relevant for today and put it back to the center of the fashion scene.” Bottega Veneta’s ready-to-wear design director Matthieu Blazy was announced as his successor shortly afterwards.
Daniel Lee at Burberry
After being linked to a number of luxury houses, Lee succeeded Riccardo Tisci as chief designer of Burberry in September 2022.
Lee debuted at the British house with a collection for Fall/Winter 2023, once more speaking to the idea of evolved heritage. The runway show opened with an updated take on the signature trench coat, rendered in new color stories with updated cuts. Aran and argyle jumpers reinforced the British sensibility, while an English rose appeared as a motif (a symbol also synonymous with Yorkshire, where Lee grew up). Pleated tartan-inspired kilts and blown-up sneakers merged with deconstructed car coats and square-toed shoes, another Lee signature. Finally, Lee showcased a fresh take on the Equestrian Knight Design (EKD). Rather than green, Lee returned to an electric blue, reflecting the new slim typeface, which he also established.
As has become the norm in luxury circles, Lee set about building a “team” of Burberry ambassadors, headed up by South Korean soccer star Son Heung-Min. For his sophomore Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Lee returned to more experimental trench coats, leaning on ’80s power tailoring and manifestations of bare flesh for a sensual aesthetic.
Daniel Lee FAQ
Who has Daniel Lee worked with?
Daniel Lee completed internships at Maison Margiela, Balenciaga and Donna Karan. He then worked as director of ready-to-wear at CELINE. Lee then assumed responsibility for design at Bottega Veneta, before taking the creative reins at Burberry.
Where did Daniel Lee go to school?
After going to school in Bradford, England, Daniel Lee attended the prestigious MA fashion course at Central Saint Martins.
How did Daniel Lee get into fashion?
Daniel Lee grew up when designers like John Galliano and Alexander McQueen were “making the most noise,” inspiring him to study fashion at Central Saint Martins.
What is Daniel Lee famous for?
Daniel Lee is most known for his tenures at Bottega Veneta and Burberry. He is famously regarded as being media shy.
What shoes did Daniel Lee design?
Some of Daniel Lee’s most notable shoes include Bottega Veneta’s Puddle boot, Lido sandal and Stretch sandal.
Where to buy designs from Daniel Lee?
You can buy Daniel Lee’s designs for Bottega Veneta and Burberry on GOAT.