How Virgil Abloh and Off-White Redefined the Apparel Collaboration
The partnerships and collections that made the late designer a global icon.
Creating a brand from nothing with a unique point of view within an ocean of new and existing brands is a monumental task. It’s what makes Off-White an exceptional case amongst its peers. Founded in 2012 by Virgil Abloh, the label did the impossible, developing its own unmistakable identity in just a few short years. So distinctive was Off-White’s visual language, in fact, that Abloh quickly turned Off-White into a prolific collaboration machine, stamping its signature aesthetics on everything from Byredo fragrances and Moncler jackets to Evian water bottles and IKEA homewares.
Topping the list to this day, of course, is the label’s 'The Ten' sneakers produced in partnership with Nike, along with the countless variations, expansions and new models that followed in their wake. The collaboration changed the conversation around sneaker design permanently, and catapulted Abloh and his Milan-based brand to the forefront of fashion. Off-White’s apparel collaborations, however, remain overlooked when discussing the brand’s impact on global style; ironic given the brand built its reputation on clothing outfitted with distinctive logos.
Following Abloh’s unexpected passing, the scope of what he accomplished with Off-White, and the quickness with which he achieved it, gains newfound significance. In what amounts to little over a decade, Abloh performed a veritable coup de force against the fashion industry, infiltrating it, rising through the ranks and transforming it from within. All the while, his work consciously acknowledged the cultural connections between disparate fields, from architecture and graffiti to music and art, forcing fashion designers to recognize these connections not simply as reference points, but as an ongoing dialogue that circled the globe.
As the Italy-based brand carries Abloh’s legacy forward, we take a look back at eight Off-White apparel collaborations, reflecting on the brand’s conceptual inner workings to better understand the late designer’s singular genius.