A Closer Look at MCQ's New Icon: BREATHE
Meet the Finnish stylist bringing tension through layering and revealing.
MCQ, a new label and platform launched by the house of Alexander McQueen in 2020, introduces BREATHE, the seventh in its series of Icons. BREATHE explores the idea of functional, fashionable clothing that can be worn in any climate, taking inspiration from lightweight, utilitarian motifs like parachutes and sails.
Developed in collaboration with industrial designer Tom Ducarouge, the Icon is rooted in mindfulness and the calming qualities associated with breathing, told through the use of innovative fabrics. Every piece features blockchain and NFC technology (Near Field Communications), enabling consumers to trace the life of an item, from where and when it was made to how many were produced.
The accompanying campaign was shot by photographer Nikki McClarron and styled by Finnish-born, London-based creative Anna Pesonen. We caught up with Pesonen to learn more about styling post-lockdown, the difference between Finnish and Japanese expression, and communicating respiration through clothes.
Tell us how you went about styling the BREATHE campaign.
I focused on creating looks that were in line with the theme of the Icon: calm and ease. I always lean on putting together monochromatic looks but it made even more sense here. The monochromatic direction removed the potential for visual chaos, giving way to looks that flowed, just like the idea of breathing.
How was this shoot special? Can you share any memorable moments?
The shoot was a lovely homecoming for me because I was “stuck” in Japan during the pandemic and hadn’t been in London for a year. I arrived straight from the 10-day isolation period, only seeing a tiny bit of London from a window beforehand. It was so lovely reuniting with my team after being separated for so long on different sides of the world.
Something else that was memorable were the plants. Not all of them are even visible in the photos. It would’ve been a shame to throw them away, so I left with 10 plants in the back of an Uber. It was very convenient actually as I had just moved into my new place in London. Now the plants remind me of that transition period in my life and of the fun days we had at the shoot.
What inspirations informed the styling of the campaign?
The MCQ team created pieces featuring tactile details that literally remind or help us to take a deep breath. Based on this, I focused on creating calming, monochromatic looks, mostly with transparent materials that have an airy, breezy feel to them. There’s a sense of ease to all the looks as well; they’re layered in a confident but not overbearing way.
Environmental responsibility is at the core of MCQ with collaborators like Byborre and Post Carbon exploring ways to make the garments as eco-friendly as possible. What role does sustainability take in your personal approach to fashion?
It’s crucial that brands make their operations and products as eco-friendly and responsible as possible, and it’s great MCQ focuses on this.
Personally, I only buy pieces I love and that I know I’ll wear for years. When I do shop, I opt for second-hand a lot. When I’m consulting, I take part in the design development phase and am able to push to search for fabrics and dyes that are developed to be eco-friendly. There’s so much innovation happening in this area right now.
In what ways did your Finnish upbringing influence your approach to fashion? And what are the things that inspire you about London?
Individual expression has always been heralded in Finland, however, due to the harsh weather conditions, practicality often overrides style. In Japan, where I spent all of 2020, people combine these two elements so well, in a way that is authentic, personal and relaxed, which is when everyone looks their best. You can understand a bit about the wearers’ interests, but at the same time there’s a certain sense of ease, of not trying too hard.
All of these experiences—this nomadic adult life and my upbringing in Finland—culminates in me currently wearing men’s soft tailoring, mostly in black. The stark simplicity and practicality represents my Finnish side, while the nomad in me seeks comfort and adaptability.
In London, I’m inspired by the abundance of contemporary art and the ancient artworks, as well as the classical architecture. The presence of both old and new ideas inspires me to think about my work from a new angle.
How would you describe your styling ethos?
My styling ethos is to create looks that are believable for the wearer and the viewer. Even the ones that are kind of ridiculous for everyday wear are created with a fantasy that is very much rooted in realism.
I seek to also look at the body of the wearer almost from a sculptural point of view. I create tension between the layering and the revealing instinctively, based on how the wearer is built and which features are most prominent, or the ones I would like to elongate or define. Body language and mannerism play into it as well.
When I style shows or shoots, I scan the way models are moving around and read the situation to find the right components to make the looks come alive.
What is your favorite piece from this Icon?
My favorite piece is the hoodie with the beads on the drawstrings. I like the idea of design details that have importance beyond style. In this instance, the beads can be used like prayer beads, reminding the wearer of the present moment. The hoodie also includes a ‘BREATHE’ artifact, which is a tactile, braille-like detail on the sleeve; when the wearer runs their finger over it, the motion guides one to focus on taking deep breaths.