The NYC designer paired Elizabethan references with nods to femininity and masculinity to explore the Y2K phenomenon.

LUAR Fall/Winter 2024
Raul Lopez Reflects on Metrosexuality Through Elizabethan References and Nods to Masculinity

For Fall/Winter 2024, Lopez returned to New York Fashion Week, grappling with masculinity, sexual identity and societal acceptance. Showcased at a Brooklyn warehouse, the event made waves before a single look was even sent out, due in no small part to the presence of Beyoncé and Solange Knowles. Titled ‘Deceptionista,’ the collection centered around “metrosexuality,” a well-groomed, style-obsessed male archetype that dominated American popular culture in the 1990s and early 2000s.

For Lopez, the persona was a useful shield while growing up, a way for him to navigate the world at a time when queer culture was less visible and still largely unacceptable to broader society. “Metrosexuality was not just a label or a look—it was a trapdoor to acceptance,” shared Lopez after the show. “As society embraces a softer masculine aesthetic again, it’s no longer the metrosexual man doing the deceiving, but society retreating on its own heteronormative programming.”

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Shiny leather garments kicked off the presentation in the form of clean tailoring and exaggerated outerwear. Bold shoulders and oversized sleeves nodded to the collection’s Elizabethan influences among other historical references. Tiger-striped textiles, ostrich-print fabrics and fur-like textures appeared throughout on sheer shirting and leather pants, and as accents on accessories and jackets.

Homages to the animal kingdom extended to a collaboration with Moose Knuckles revealed on the runway. Reimagining parkas with LUAR house codes, the preview served as the first installment of a multi-season partnership. “It’s so exciting to be working with a brand that champions innovation, technology and design,” says Lopez. “Those themes are always at the forefront of my design process.”

A new collaboration wasn’t the only thing debuted on the runway. This season also marked the launch of “LUAR Basics.” A counterbalance to some of Lopez’s most audacious designs, the pieces punctuated the collection with dresses, T-shirts and sweats that deliver on Lopez’s vision of wardrobe essentials. “The balance is in narrowing down the things that I use most often and creating that utility within the LUAR aesthetic language.”

Of course, no LUAR show would be complete without a look into the future of the Ana bag. This season the cult-favorite accessory arrived in entirely new permutations, including an avant-garde backpack silhouette. “The backpack we debuted is the newest expansion in the accessory category. As LUAR evolves I want the accessories to build with my community’s wardrobe.”

LUAR’s take on sunglasses, inspired by old men who wear shades on top of their reading glasses, are a reminder that New Yorkers are at the core of Lopez’s creative process—no matter how far they might appear to be removed from his world at first glance. “The new accessories launching this year, our backpack and eyewear, will have a unique-meets-universal appeal. LUAR pieces will always be a conversation starter, but they will also have a real-life practicality behind them.”

As a whole, the garments spoke to shifting conversations around sexuality and how we present ourselves to the outside world. While Lopez’s work honors the diversity native to New York—a melting pot of ideas, personalities and cultures—his work drives conversations forward through his own lens. “This collection is about challenging sexuality, and I’m so happy to see that metrosexuality within our cultures is no longer such a taboo,” Lopez says. “My collection helps people see that New York is alive and well. People are still here pushing boundaries.”

Explore Raul Lopez’s journey through fashion in <a href="https://www.goat.com/editorial/luar-raul-lopez-greatest-magazine-interview" rel="noreferrer noopener" target="_blank">GREATEST 08</a>.

Luar Small Ana Bag 'Black'

Luar Sunglasses 'Black'

Luar Printed Trousers 'Multicolor'

Luar Houndstooth Blazer 'Black/White'

Luar Embroidered Logo Tie 'Tan'

Luar Denim Shirt 'Indigo'

Luar Sunglasses 'Red'

Luar Grey Sweatpants 'Grey'

Raul Lopez Reflects on Metrosexuality for LUAR Fall/Winter 2024

The veteran designer creates a world of warmth and welcome at New York Fashion Week.

Willy Chavarria Fall/Winter 2024
The Veteran Designer Creates a World of Warmth and Welcome at NYFW

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