Backstage at Dior, Kenzo, Y/Project and more.

Y/PROJECT
Glenn Martens presented <a href="https://www.goat.com/brand/yproject">Y/Project</a> SS23 in the garden of Lycée Victor Duruy, an elite Parisian high school. Informed by the architectural oddities of Bruges—Martens’ hometown—the collection showcased the creative director’s unconventional design sensibilities. Draped tops appeared suspended at the shoulder, held by invisible wire. Denim was asymmetrically slashed and stitched together, continuing the collection’s experimental aesthetic. Fitted silhouettes stood out in relief against oversized tailoring, while understated trompe l'oeil pieces marked the second season of the brand’s collaboration with <a href="https://www.goat.com/brand/jean-paul-gaultier">Jean Paul Gaultier</a>.

REESE COOPER
<a href="https://www.goat.com/brand/reese-cooper">Reese Cooper</a> presented his SS23 collection in Paris’ iconic Jardin des Plantes. Titled "Seed &amp; Soil,” the LA-based designer explored the concept of growth through horticulture-inspired utilitarian silhouettes and botanical prints made by artist Juliet Johnstone. Collaborating with <a href="https://www.goat.com/brand/levis">Levi’s</a>, the brand’s signature workwear silhouettes were reimagined in denim, from ombre chore coats and wide-leg pants to coordinated patchwork sets. Oversized flap pockets and carabiner hooks further emphasized the collection’s theme, while the seasonal color palette ranged from muted hues to deep oranges and vibrant blues.

DIOR HOMME
Kim Jones examined the parallels between Christian Dior and British painter Duncan Grant for <a href="https://www.goat.com/brand/dior-homme">Dior Homme</a> Summer 2023. Botanical motifs, check patterns and Grant's Post-Impressionistic artwork decorated knitwear, sweatshirts and <a href="https://www.goat.com/apparel/outerwear">outerwear</a>. Couture tailoring was juxtaposed against technical outdoor styles, visible in the form of zippered jackets, double-layer shorts, gardening hats and water bottle holders. The muted color palette paid further tribute to Christian Dior’s legacy, spanning greys, washed pastels and tea-rose reds.

CASABLANCA
Founder and creative director Charaf Tajer explored the concept of eternal hope for <a href="https://www.goat.com/brand/casablanca">Casablanca</a>’s SS23 collection. Titled "Futuro Optimisto," the collection expressed the theme through three vignettes: Vaqueros, Phantastica, and Nature and Architecture. Tailored and utilitarian silhouettes were executed in psychedelic hues, recalling prairie life, cosmic consciousness and oceanic landscapes. Using an artisanal hand-embroidery technique, lattice beadwork appeared across dresses, tops and skirts, while silkwear featured prominently throughout, continuing to serve as a vehicle of Casablanca storytelling.

KENZO
For his second collection as the artistic director of KENZO, Nigo continued to refine his retro, prep-inspired point of view for the French house. A kaleidoscope of references comprised each look, from school uniforms to sailor outfits to American workwear. Varsity jackets arrived with middy collars and oversized KENZO branding. Clashing plaids, leopard prints and colorful patches channeled the season’s celebration of youth. The Boke flower, introduced during the FW22 season, reprised its role as a central motif to Nigo’s KENZO, while traditional fabrics, including Japan-sourced denim, paid homage to the meticulous specifications established by founder Kenzo Takada in 1970.

First Looks: Paris Men’s Spring/Summer 2023

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