How Nature is Reclaiming the Runway One Blade of Grass at a Time
This season’s lush motifs celebrate nature while warning of what may come.
Paleontologists estimate that grass has existed on earth for at least 55 million years. Most of us rarely give it a second thought, so it’s unsurprising that fashion typically looks to more visually striking flora for inspiration. However, it was exactly this quotidian species that took center stage at Loewe’s SS23 men’s show, alongside chia plants and catnip which were seeded, watered and grown on footwear and garments in a polytunnel just outside Paris over a 20-day period. Real grass sprouted from sneakers, track pants, hoodies, jeans and coats, the result of a collaboration with Spanish bio-designer Paula Ulargui Escalona. The collection urged us to think about how we could better collaborate with nature rather than plunder it for its resources. If the scorched city parks of our increasingly hot summers have taught us anything, it’s not to take nature for granted—even the parts that are as mundane as grass.
This season’s eco influences, however, signified a tension between the breathtaking spectacle of natural landscapes and deeper, more dystopian anxieties.
Craig Green took a practical approach, designing stirrups, harnesses and performance wear with functional pockets for outdoor explorers.
Much like the environment itself, unpredictable and evolving, nature’s current presence in fashion continues to express many things at once; escapism, refuge, new materials, potential utopias, cautionary dystopias and a way of dealing with the earth’s precarious future.
It’s an invitation to put our devices down and step back out into nature, before it’s too late.