Beginner’s Guide to Air Jordan 5

History of the Air Jordan 5

Tinker Hatfield created the Air Jordan 5 for Michael Jordan’s 1990 season with the Chicago Bulls. Updating design codes established on the Air Jordan 4 with a more aggressive sensibility, Hatfield took inspiration from the nose art of World War II fighter jets. This approach most visibly manifested on the sneaker’s distinctive shark-tooth midsole detail, doubling as a metaphor for MJ’s “biting” style of play. 

The launch of the silhouette came after the NBA superstar had been crowned MVP, Defensive Player of the Year, All-Star Game MVP and two-time Slam Dunk champion, with the shoe’s referential design cues symbolic of Jordan’s rapidly evolving mythos on and off the court. MJ famously wore the AJ5 as the Bulls reached the Eastern Conference Finals before losing to the Detroit Pistons.

As well as the signature serrated midsole pattern, the AJ5 was the first Air Jordan to feature reflective materials, a translucent sole and a lace-lock system. First brought back as a Retro in 2000, notable NBA players including P.J. Tucker have worn updated models on the hardwood. Despite its heritage as a performance basketball shoe, the AJ5 is now widely considered a lifestyle sneaker, cementing its position in ’90s culture with Will Smith wearing a ‘Grape’ pair in The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air.

Different Types of Air Jordan 5s

First released as a high-top, the Air Jordan 5 has since been reworked as a low-top. Numerous collaborative versions with outside creative partners have been released over the years. Additional limited-edition AJ5 models include Player Exclusives produced for professional and college athletes.

The Air Jordan 5 is generally produced in full family size runs, including men’s, women’s, kid’s, GS (Grade School) and PS (Pre-School) sizes.

Best Air Jordan 5 colorways

Iconic colorways of the Air Jordan 5 include ‘Fire Red,’ ‘Fire Red (Black Tongue),’ ‘Metallic’ and ‘Grape.’ Below, find a list of other notable iterations.

Air Jordan 5 Retro+ ‘Laney’ (2000)

A tribute to the colors of MJ’s Emsley A. Laney High School in Wilmington, North Carolina, ‘Laney’ has dressed numerous Air Jordan silhouettes. 2000’s Retro iteration sees a white upper matched with hits of Royal Blue and Varsity Maize. The first Retro to feature Mike’s number “23” embroidery at the rear, the icon was re-released in 2013.

Air Jordan 5 Retro LS ‘Olive’ (2006)

Initially speculated to be an Undefeated collaboration due to its similarities with the retailer’s previous Air Jordan 4 collaboration, this olive version was released under the brand’s LS (lifestyle) line. The shoe is highlighted by hits of Solar Orange that stand out in contrast against the muted green build.

Air Jordan 5 Retro RA ‘Laser’ (2007)

Released in 2007, the AJ5 Retro RA ‘Laser’ is marked by an art-inspired laser pattern in Army Olive. An effervescent Solar Orange midsole and toggle fastening complete the flamboyant style.

Air Jordan 5 Retro ‘Raging Bull Red Suede’ (2009)

The ‘Raging Bull Red Suede’ color story is inspired by the red bandanas worn at Pamplona’s running of the bulls in Spain. It was released as part of a wider ‘Raging Bulls’ pack recognizing some of Jordan’s most iconic career moments.

Air Jordan 5 Retro T23 ‘Tokyo’ (2011)

Air Jordan released the AJ5 Retro T23 ‘Tokyo’ to mark the opening of its Jordan Tokyo 23 store in Japan. Composed of a suede yellow upper, a reworked “23” logo is included on the heel as a tribute to the capital’s Shibuya neighborhood.

Air Jordan 5 Retro NRG ‘Fresh Prince’ (2018)

Air Jordan celebrated Will Smith’s 50th birthday with an updated ‘Fresh Prince’ version of the ‘Grape’ colorway that regularly adorned his feet in the iconic sitcom. Beyond the familiar color story, the sneaker arrives without laces in reference to Smith’s character styling the shoe unlaced in the show.

Features of Air Jordan 5 Shoes 

The overarching Air Jordan 5 design has remained the same since the shoe debuted in 1990. Original Jordan models employ tangibly tougher leathers, while newer retro designs are reworked with modern materials for improved comfort. Created by Tinker Hatfield, below is an overview of the AJ5’s most notable design hallmarks. 

Translucent Outsole

Footwear designers invariably opted for solid rubber outsoles until the Air Jordan 5. Now commonplace on the hardwood, the translucent outsole marked an aesthetic departure at the time. The design flourish continues to distinguish the silhouette from its contemporaries.

Toggle Lacing System

The Air Jordan 5 was the first silhouette in the series to come equipped with a lace-lock toggle. Adorned with the Jumpman logo, the design element provided an additional degree of lockdown.

Shark-Tooth Design

The most well-known addition to the Air Jordan 5 was the shark-tooth detailing on the midsole. This aesthetic touch paid tribute to MJ’s ferocious playing style with the idea of putting fear into the opposition.

Reflective Tongue

The Air Jordan 5’s oversized tongue affected the outline of the silhouette. Even more notable was the shoe’s reflective 3M material, included by Hatfield to light up when flashbulbs went off in MJ’s presence.

Number 23

Initially, only the original ‘Fire Red’ colorway released with MJ’s number 23 at the heel side panel. Following the release of the ‘Laney’ Retro in 2000, this embroidery became a regular inclusion.

Nike Air Cushioning

At the time of release, the Air Jordan 5 was at the forefront of basketball footwear technology. Placed in the heel and covered by thick plastic casing, Air cushioning helped MJ dampen impact upon landing.

Popular Collaborations for Air Jordan 5s

Over the years, Air Jordan has enlisted a wide range of creative collaborators to remix the Air Jordan 5 with signature design techniques. This includes artists, brands, stores, musicians and more. Below, an overview of some of the most notable Air Jordan 5 collaborations.

Off-White x Air Jordan 5

Virgil Abloh’s Off-White released two iterations of the Air Jordan 5 in 'Muslin' and ‘Sail’ colorways. A Chicago native who idolized MJ growing up, Abloh’s design slimmed down the silhouette, made the tongue thinner, removed internal ankle padding and invited the wearer to cut out holes on the upper. 

PSG x Air Jordan 5

Air Jordan commemorated French football giant Paris Saint-Germain’s groundbreaking partnership with a blacked-out AJ5 Retro in 2018, while the club’s players were also gifted a special Friends and Family silhouette in white. A low-top iteration of the shoe in ‘Paname’ followed in 2022.

DJ Khaled x Air Jordan 5

Known for his love of sneaker culture, DJ Khaled teamed up with Air Jordan for a series of AJ5 silhouettes. The ‘We The Best’ collection saw the producer’s motto embroidered at the heel, with the shoes decorated in an array of pastel tones and flashes of purple and blue.

Supreme x Air Jordan 5

Supreme brought its subversive design ethos to the Air Jordan 5 in 2015. The most notable silhouette was a camouflage design, marking the first time the pattern had ever been used on an Air Jordan silhouette. Subtle details include swapping out the “23” stitching on the heel for “94,” a tribute to the skate brand’s founding year.

Air Jordan 5 FAQ

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