Sneaker Technology Guide

The footwear industry is innovating at an unprecedented pace. After EVA cushioning foam became standard in performance running shoes during the ’90s and ’00s, adidas’ introduction of Boost technology in 2013 changed the game, driving brands to place a renewed emphasis on innovation. 

Today, reading through the detail specs of a sneaker catalog, full of futuristic-sounding acronyms and neologisms, can be a daunting task. Fortunately, gaining an understanding of these terms is much less complex than the intricate development process behind them. 

Below, a guide to some of the most common technology terms in contemporary sneakers.

Zoom

Nike’s Zoom Air technology uses tightly stretched fibers in a pressurized air unit. The fibers compress upon impact, allowing for enhanced elasticity and strength recovery. The result is a lightweight and easy cushioning system ideal for athletes seeking comfort and mobility during high-intensity activities such as running and basketball.

C-CAP

New Balance's C-CAP technology uses compression-molded EVA in the midsole for improved cushioning and ease of movement. The technology features in some of the Boston label’s most notable silhouettes including the 576 and 999.

EVA

Deployed in everything from refrigerators and surfboards to skateboards and bike helmets, EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate) foam is a material familiar to many. EVA midsoles are made through injection molding: EVA pellets are melted and injected into a designed mold cavity. After the material cools and solidifies, the midsoles are ejected from the mold and trimmed, before undergoing quality control. This process allows for mass production with consistent quality and performance.

Commercialized in the 1970s, the lightweight foam began appearing in most running shoes from the 1980s onwards, and still remains ubiquitous across the running shoe landscape. Various brands infuse it with air, gas or other materials to tweak its performance properties. Brooks, for example, blends EVA with extra air for enhanced cushioning.

Nitro

PUMA developed its Nitro technology through a process that infuses the shoe's foam with nitrogen gas, hence the name. Featuring throughout the brand’s running, trail and basketball categories, it allows for cushioning that absorbs impact without adding excess weight.

React

Nike released its first shoe with React cushioning technology in 2017, describing it as its most complete foam ever. The foam combines Thermoplastic Elastomer (TPE) and EVA polymers for a result that provides softness without heaviness. According to the Swoosh, React’s unique combination of softness and durability enables it to withstand thousands of miles in running shoes.

Bounce

As the name indicates, adidas’ Bounce technology is an EVA foam cushioning system consisting of pods that absorb impact and provide springy energy return. It is notably incorporated in the Three Stripes’ AlphaBounce series.

Boost

Boost technology debuted on the adidas Energy Boost in 2013. It took off in 2015, however, with the Ultra Boost, which quickly became a cultural sensation through early adopters like Kanye West. Developed in collaboration with German company BASF, the technology is made using Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU). 

Beginning as a solid granular material, it is blown up and reshaped into thousands of tiny energy capsules, which are then fused together for maximum energy return and cushioning. Beyond the Ultra Boost, the innovative system also features on shoes such as the NMD and throughout Kanye West’s Yeezy series.

TPU

TPU foam is perhaps most strongly associated with adidas’ influential Ultra Boost series, which steams together tiny TPU foam pellets for a cohesive sole unit. TPU strikes a balance between firm and soft, and is favored by many runners as a recovery shoe after strenuous activity. Because it compresses less than EVA foam, it also works well for heavier runners doing short-distance runs.

Flywire

Nike’s Flywire marked a seismic shift in lightweight, supportive uppers. Created by Jay Meschter, director of innovation at Nike, and inspired by a suspension bridge supported by cables, Flywire features criss-crossing fibers made of Vectran, nylon or other materials, designed to provide lightweight support and containment. This ensures the foot does not slip or slide off the sides of the sole or roll forward, especially when the upper is also made of lightweight and form-fitting or stretchy material.

PEBA

Nike debuted PEBA (Polyether Block Amide) in 2016 on the Vaporfly Elite, and ever since, it has quickly garnered a reputation as a “super foam.” Nike refers to it by the brand name Pebax, a specific high-quality type of PEBA made by Arkema. Bouncy with an explosive toe-off, it is unique in that a midsole with good energy return is typically not very soft, and vice versa. PEBA-based midsole foams will crease after a few runs, which is a sign of the foam breaking in. They are designed more for runners looking to beat personal best times, rather than casual wearers. That said, the technology has begun to trickle down to more casual silhouettes in recent years.

Air

Nike launched a footwear revolution when it debuted Air, arguably the most iconic footwear innovation of all time. Encapsulating pressurized air within resilient chambers—which can feature at the forefoot, rear or, in the case of the Air Max 97, throughout the entire sole—these bubbles deliver responsive cushioning and enhanced energy return. 

Famously, the technology, which first debuted in 1978 in the Nike Tailwind, exploded in popularity with the 1987 Air Max 1, the first trainer to showcase a visible Air unit as part of the shoe design. The idea came to designer Tinker Hatfield after he saw the inside-out structure of the Pompidou Centre in Paris.

Flyknit

Nike debuted its knit technology with the Nike Flyknit Racer in 2012. Following its success, the company continued to roll out the material in soccer, basketball, football and other training footwear. Flyknit forms a second, breathable skin around the foot, varying the knit patterns through the upper for shape and support. Certain areas have a tighter weave to give the foot more support, while other areas are designed to be looser.

ENCAP

Sometimes confused with C-CAP, New Balance’s ENCAP cushioning technology features a central layer of plush EVA cushioning, encased by a resilient polyurethane rim to give both support and longevity. It is used in many of the brand’s performance and lifestyle silhouettes, including the 990 series.

FuelCell

Introduced in 2017, FuelCell represents another advancement in cushioning technology by New Balance. Utilizing nitrogen-infused TPU foam in the midsole (in the same vein as adidas Boost and Saucony EVERUN, FuelCell prioritizes speed over comfort. Its unique selling point is energy return and minimal weight, boasting rebound rates of at least 55%.

OrthoLite

Insoles specialist OrthoLite was founded in 1997 with a stated mission to “help brands build better shoes by making them more comfortable.” To do this, the company dived deep into research, eventually arriving on insoles made from open-cell polyurethane (PU). Designed to be breathable, lightweight and washable, OrthoLite insoles are used by major sports brands including adidas and ASICS.

Radial Knit

Nike Radial Knit is a soft, lightweight and breathable upper material, delivering targeted containment and reinforcement without sacrificing weight.

Companies

Various companies outside the sportswear realm are bringing their innovation prowess to brands. Below, some of the most notable.

GORE-TEX

GORE-TEX, developed by Bob Gore in 1969, resulted from his experiments with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). The innovative fabric membrane, composed of expanded PTFE, revolutionized outdoor gear by offering waterproof yet breathable protection. Today, the brand’s proprietary technology is used by numerous sportswear brands including Nike.

Vibram

Vibram was founded in Italy in 1937 by Vitale Bramani, who sought to create durable, high-performance soles after several of his friends were killed in a mountaineering tragedy. He introduced the shoe world to the Carrarmato, a lug sole design that became an industry standard.

Over the decades, Vibram has continued to innovate, expanding its range to include various sole technologies for diverse outdoor activities, and solidifying its reputation as a leader in footwear traction and durability. The company is renowned for designs that include the minimalist FiveFingers, as well as an advanced rubber compound sole called the MegaGrip. Today, its solutions are used by a number of sports, outdoor and luxury brands.

PrimaLoft

PrimaLoft, a synthetic microfiber thermal insulation material, was initially developed for the United States Army during the 1980s as an alternative to down. While primarily associated with outerwear, gloves and sleeping bags, today, the insulation is also found in footwear such as The North Face’s Thermoball slippers.

Sneaker Terminology

Below is an overview of acronyms and terms used by top sneaker brands to categorize certain products or technologies.

Nike and Air Jordan

PE

PE stands for “Player Edition” or “Player Exclusive.”

SP

SP stands for “Special Project.”

SE

SE stands for “Special Edition.”

SB

SB stands for “Skateboard.”

QS

QS stands for “Quickstrike.”

HS

HS stands for “Hyperstrike.”

Retro

A retro is a shoe that has been remastered with modern updates while preserving its signature design elements.

Protro

A portmanteau of “performance” and “retro,” Protro refers to retro shoes that have been re-engineered with modern performance technology.

New Balance

At New Balance, the last two digits in a running shoe’s style number refers to the activity the shoe was originally designed for. For instance, because the 940 and 1540 both end in “40,” the shoes are built with control, stability and cushioning in mind as explained below.

40

40 shoes are designed for enhanced control, stability and cushioning, supporting those with pronation or low arches.

50

50 shoes are designed for training on roads or for indoor workouts. 

60

60 shoes are stability-focused with an emphasis on cushioning.

70

70 shoes combine stability and speed, shedding excess weight.

80

80 shoes are aimed at long-distance runners, bringing performance cushioning to lightweight shoes.

90

90 shoes are designed as speed silhouettes for faster runners.

adidas 

OG

OG stands for “original,” referencing the inaugural release of a silhouette. Other brands besides adidas are known to use this designation as well.

Sneaker Technology FAQ

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