Mark Ong
The world-renowned sneaker customizer shares how skateboarding, punk rock and his interest for military shaped his DIY ethos.
Mark Ong, also known as Mr. Sabotage, is a world-renowned sneaker customizer who also started his own streetwear brand, SBTG Surplus. Growing up skateboarding and listening to punk rock, Ong channels a DIY punk ethos with a strong military aesthetic, resulting in different camouflage prints on several of his works. Starting off hand-painting sneakers back in the early 2000s, Ong sold one of his first customized Nikes and realized he could create a viable career with his unique creations. Working with several brands over the years, Ong is set to debut a new collaboration with ASICSTIGER at Culture Cartel 2018.
Thanks for taking the time to chat, Mark. Can you tell us about the origins of Mr. Sabotage and the SBTG brand?
Thank you for having me. I’m an artist who is most well-known for expressing my work on sneakers. I run the company with my wife (Mrs. Sabotage) and her assistant, Corey. We mainly collaborate with brands to come up with amazing products and also own a clothing brand called SBTG Surplus. Our design aesthetic is camouflaged skater with a punk soundtrack.
How did you get into the sneaker scene? Do you remember your first pair of shoes? What is your favorite sneaker of all time?
I’ve always had a love for shoes. I found them sculpturally beautiful and loved how they contributed to my outfits. I got into the sneaker scene through skateboarding. My shoes would get thrashed quickly and I always wanted my shoes to look nice. It’s hard to pinpoint how I started. It’s through a series of events that contributed to me doing Sabotage. I remember doodling band logos on my shoes in primary school, slicing away the lace savers on my Airwalk tail slides, cutting my high tops to mids and using a tester marker in a stationery shop to colour in my shoes. But I guess the shoes that really made me fall in love with sneakers were the OG Air Jordan 1.
You won a “Best Sneaker Customizer” award from the NikeTalk online forum community back in 2002 and sold your first custom, an Air Force 1. What is it about customization that spoke to you?
At that point in time, I had already started a little collection and found out that it didn’t really quench what I was thirsty for. It was a time before retro shoes and I was madly into the vintage colours I saw in the Japanese magazines. I started to paint some all-white sneakers into the colourways I couldn’t afford or find. It was rad up until then, but when Supreme launched the Dunk SB shoe in 2003, something clicked in my head and it opened the door to a new world that I’ve been immersed in for the last 15 years.
You cited different inspirations growing up including skateboarding, the DIY punk-rock ethos and a military aesthetic. How do you harness these different segments into your work?
Being a skateboarder from the 80s and to be an authentic human being is deeply ingrained in my blood. Having this background, I naturally felt I needed to be just that. My childhood influences were the content that I had at hand to express myself, so I spent a lot of time training myself to visually express that in my work.
Being in the sneaker community for so long, what are your thoughts on the current sneaker scene?
It’s gone crazy. It’s exactly what I secretly wished for. It’s now so diverse and the expression has gone to such extremes, resulting in parts that I both love and hate. But I feel that this creates balance and it’s happening whether we like it or not, which is dope. We could now do what we would never have dreamt of back then.
We are sitting here during an important street culture moment: the first Culture Cartel here in Singapore. What do you think of this event happening in your hometown?
Culture Cartel is Asia’s first all-encompassing street culture convention in Singapore that is happening from December 1-2 2018, gathering the best from all spectrums – from street art, tattoos, pop culture toys, to streetwear. For the first time, these different elements of street culture will be brought together at the F1 Pit Building through Culture Cartel’s various components featuring exclusive launches like that of Monsoon Patrol, brand and retail showcases, art exhibitions and installations.
I’m happy to be a part of this with many other talented local and overseas artists under the street culture umbrella, who will be voicing their thoughts and sharing their craft at Culture Cartel. This is a platform for anyone and everyone who has a passion for street culture – or if you just want to get an insider’s look into the scene. We welcome all of you to Culture Cartel!
What can visitors and fans look forward to at this inaugural event?
This inaugural convention serves as an international platform for street artists, designers, tattoo artists, and urban brands across the world, to gather and put together a holistic, educational and interactive street culture showcase that has never been seen before in Asia. With the quality and variety of content that visitors can look forward to, including top-notch street culture personalities and a wide range of activities on the exhibition floor, all participants will experience the embodiment of the term ‘Street Culture’ at this massive convention. Be it the tattoo enthusiasts, toy collectors, streetwear fans or the general public across Singapore and Asia, Culture Cartel has something for everyone over one power-packed weekend!
Growing up here in Singapore, what are you thoughts on street culture and the sneakerhead scene in Southeast Asia?
I’ve been in this scene for the last 20-something years and have seen the originators make their mark in our history here. It was a very niche crowd then and we were such a small percentage. These days, with the help of the Internet and social media, we can clearly see and feel that percentage growing. I used to wish that everyone had access to nice sneakers and can definitely see that happening now.
You have stated the ‘Made in Singapore’ labels are an opportunity and a duty. How important is it to represent Southeast Asia and, more specifically, Singapore in helping push the culture?
I was going to do what I’m going to do anyway, but it so happens that it’s contributing to our history here so I find that super cool.
You are here to debut a new collaboration with ASICSTIGER and Limited Edt, the Gel-Lyte 3 ‘Monsoon Patrol.’ Can you talk about your inspirations behind this design?
Mandeep and I were inspired to conceptualize this project through my travels to cities like Tokyo, London and Singapore where we experience rain quite frequently. I wanted to build a shoe that will let us walk freely in the rain with no stress of getting our toes soaked. I wanted people around the world to know more about us, which is why I used the word “Monsoon,” which is very suggestive of Southeast Asia and “Patrol” simply means "on foot."
Can you describe the thought process behind the triple-density sole, the classic split-tongue design and the nylon tongue cover?
I give collaborations a lot of thought and I feel the formula should be two entities coming together to form something greater. With that said, I wanted to not only push boundaries but also bring something more to the table. The nylon tongue cover is there for very obvious reasons but its design really stems from 80's skate shoe styles. It’s a removable piece that is functional and still contributes to the overall aesthetic of the shoes. I really hope that this add-on can spark positive conversations and memories.
I give collaborations a lot of thought and I feel the formula should be two entities coming together to form something greater. With that said, I wanted to not only push boundaries but also bring something more to the table.
You also worked on a jacket with ASICSTIGER - a military inspired, lightweight trench coat. Can you talk about the process on doing the jacket as a complementary piece to the shoes?
Absolutely! The sneakers are part of an outfit and we wanted to tell an even more complete story about the concept. ASICSTIGER is the main manufacturer for the project, but we have added other projects to complement the sneakers, such as a New Era cap, a dry bag to store the shoes, a waterproof spray by Liquid Glass and also an umbrella.
What do the letters and numbers represent? STOCK NO: LE-65-138-SBTG and also can you talk about how 'Monsoon Patrol' was conceived?
It’s using military jargon to describe a product. LE is Limited Edt - 65 for Singapore's country code - 138 stands for freedom and SBTG for Sabotage.
You’ve done a lot of big projects with Nike SB, Puma, Converse, DC and now ASICSTIGER. Can you run us through the process of getting these collaborations started?
It’s all through relationships and conversations. Being in this industry for a long time, I’m blessed to cross paths and become friends with many people who share similar goals and energy to mine. In 2016, we launched a very successful project with ASICS and Kicks Lab from Tokyo. Our release was sold out everywhere instantly and I want to repeat that success but this time taking it back to my hometown.
My approach has always been ‘artist + brand product + retailer,’ so this time we naturally approached homegrown shoe retailer Limited Edt. Mandeep, its founder, and I have been friends since we started our respective brands so we were able to come together and do this collaboration with power.
What is your process when doing a custom sneaker? Do you take the same approach on a collaboration project as you do a customization project?
My customization process is more like a sampling phase. It’s really painting and adding to what’s already there, whereas for a production piece we get to pick and choose everything before it’s being assembled. I would usually introduce some graphics that I wouldn’t paint on to be used in my collaborative projects. Other than that, I would take the opportunity to tell a story as it has the potential to reach a wider audience.
What are the future plans for Mr. Sabotage and SBTG the brand?
During my journey, we have created a certain equity to our brand and have been breaking ground in the corporate world. For example, projects like our own credit card design with DBS Bank, to being a passion ambassador with the Singapore Tourism Board.
Customized sneakers are really a calling card for us to branch out in other projects of different natures. We are still killing it with our sneakers though, as we’ve recently made a pair for Stephen Curry as a national gift to him.
Also, I foresee us inserting Vechain NFC chips which uses blockchain technology into our future creations. This would allow customers to scan their products with an mobile phone application to authenticate them.
I also see the future of brand Sabotage evolving beyond streetwear as we are in the midst of making it into a cafe concept. Let’s see!
Photography by Anton Lim and Interview by Alex Wang