Past, Present and Future Collide on the FW24 Runways

From dollhouse aesthetics to floral footwear, the storylines, moments and designs that defined this season’s shows.

WRITER: Joe Bobowicz

They say fashion follows a 20-year cycle, reviving and reworking familiar designs for a new generation. This Fall/Winter 2024 season expressed some of the fashion world’s longest-standing themes—boho-chic, surrealism, florals—reminding us that something old and something new often come together for a winning formula. From the drama of Maison Margiela’s artisanal offering to the offbeat undercurrents of Chloé and Schiaparelli, the shows re-embraced fashion as fine art, offering the world an outlet for fantasy.

To understand why, it comes down to that age-old cliché: diamonds are made under extreme pressure. Amid stiff competition in the attention economy, those unafraid to take risks and push boundaries make the biggest splash. Designers understood that whatever they sent down the runway needed to make a strong visual impact, exemplified by Junya Watanabe’s bulbous chain-detailed mules, Saint Laurent’s sensual transparent materials and many others.

All told, these highlights only cement what we already knew: fashion isn’t really about fleeting trends, but instead, artistic interpretations of what’s come before. Below, a roundup of the season’s greatest storylines, moments and designs.

Marc Jacobs' seasonal showcase introduced a sense of make-believe on the runway.

Anthony Vaccarello expressed a sense of intimacy through the use of sheer fabrics at Saint Laurent.

Etro experimented with patterns, forms and shapes for FW24.

noir kei ninomiya transformed Reebok InstaPumps into a bouquet, reimagining the sneaker with floral motifs.

Rei Kawakubo exaggerated an iconic Dr. Martens silhouette on the Comme des Garçons runway.