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Beginner's Guide to Hokas

From humble origins to proprietary innovations, everything you need to know about the performance brand.

Written By: Graeme Campbell Published On: February 6, 2024
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Hoka One One (pronounced “Oh-nay Oh-nay”) was founded by adventurers and former Salomon product developers Nicolas Mermoud and Jean-Luc Diard in 2009. The brand’s oversized designs were inspired by the landscape of Chamonix in the French Alps, home to one of the world’s most prestigious trail-running competitions. Mermoud and Didard became frustrated at the lack of bespoke footwear for vertiginous, downhill terrain. 

The shoes they created were distinguished by three key technical concepts: a cradle-like insole, double the amount of cushioning than other designs on the market at the time, and a bottom unit with two rockers in the rear and front to help the foot roll smoothly during runs (known today as the patented Meta-Rocker system). These advancements helped spark the maximalist running shoe movement as stacked, ultra-cushioned shoes gained in popularity over minimalist styles among runners. They also informed Hoka’s tagline of “Time to Fly.”

In 2021, Hoka removed the “One One” part of its name from its website and online profiles. The shoes are now known simply as Hokas, but the official brand name remains Hoka One One.


Evolution of Hoka


In 2013, Deckers Brands acquired Hoka. Diard became global vice president of innovation for the wider company. In his new role, the Frenchman ideates new technologies for Hoka, and says he subscribes to the mantra of “ripping up the rule book.” Sakoto Furata assumed the title of senior global creative director of Hoka in 2022.

In the mid-2010s, Hoka began to expand beyond the running world, gaining favor among lifestyle and fashion audiences as interest in chunky footwear soared. Kanye West was an early adopter of the brand, wearing the Tor Ultra Hi 2 waterproof boots, while the Stinson ATR 5 silhouette was preferred by Virgil Abloh. Other cultural figures who have worn Hoka shoes include Tremaine Emory and Harry Styles. 


Iconic Collaborations

Hoka has invited various creatives, brands, designers and retailers to apply their unique aesthetic perspectives to its silhouettes. Below, a guide to some of the most notable.


Satisfy Running

Two of France’s most lauded running brands came together when Satisfy teamed up with Hoka in 2023. The duo presented a technical reimagining of the Clifton LS, rendering one pair in black and the other in beige.


Nicole McLaughlin 

Designer and digital creator Nicole McLaughlin offered up a whimsical take on the Mafate Three2 in 2023, complete with a full-coverage, four-in-one gaiter system.


Bodega

The Boston streetwear boutique and frequent footwear collaborator Bodega first partnered with Hoka in 2022, lending an earthy twist to the Kaha Low GTX trail hiker (for exploration) and Ora Recovery Slide (for lounging). The following year, they joined forces again, this time tackling winterized iterations of the Tor Ultra Hi and Lo.


Engineered Garments

Daiki Suzuki and his brand Engineered Garments first linked up with Hoka in 2021, putting an understated twist on the Bondi B, Tor Ultra Low and Hupana silhouettes. They then turned their collective attention to the Bondi L, for a design that took staple elements of past Engineered Garments shoe and boot collaborations and applied them to a sneaker.


Moncler

Moncler applied its exceptional technical know-how to the Mafate Speed 2 in 2021, resulting in a luxury sneaker fine-tuned for all-terrain exploration. Released in limited numbers, the silhouette came with a white base and silver accents, finished with tricolor lace detailing and a Vibram outsole.


Outdoor Voices

Hoka linked up with Austin-based label Outdoor Voices in 2019 for a minimalist trio of OV Clifton silhouettes. A women’s-exclusive violet iteration led the pack.


This Is Never That

Korean streetwear label This Is Never That was one of the first brands to collaborate with Hoka. The Seoul stalwart worked on the Speedgoat 4, rendering it in white with bright blue laces.


Hoka Top Silhouettes of 2024

Hoka is regularly updating its footwear range with new silhouettes, colorways and designs. Below, a selection of recent highlights.


Bondi 8

The Bondi series is one of Hoka’s most versatile, designed as a “workhorse” shoe for both performance and everyday exploration. Its eighth incarnation is executed with an all-new heel design for improved comfort, with more midsole foam than previous iterations.


Mach 5

Inspired by the Mach 4 and Mach Supersonic, the Mach 5 is a lightweight road shoe that performs well for tempo runs. It features a ProFly+ construction in the midsole and a rubberized EVA outsole for an agile ride.


Ora Recovery Slide

Hoka’s footwear lineup is reinforced with the Ora Recovery Slide program. Ideal for tired feet after runs, the injection molded sugarcane EVA midsole provides plush, supportive cushioning for a massage-like feel.


Clifton 9

The ninth iteration in Hoka’s acclaimed Clifton series is an ideal daily trainer for a soft, comfortable ride. The shoe features new compression-molded EVA foam and improvements to its engineered mesh upper.


Speedgoat 5

Hoka’s Speedgoat series is geared toward trail running, marked by an aggressive Vibram Megagrip traction outsole that makes light work of the most difficult terrain. The fifth installment features a redesigned lightweight upper and double-layer jacquard mesh on the upper, with strategic textile overlays offering extra support.


How to Style Hoka Sneakers

Hoka has released sneakers across various categories, from lifestyle sneakers and runners to super shoes. The brand experienced a surge in popularity as maximalist designs began to infiltrate the fashion sphere, bridging form and function. Ultimately, Hoka sneakers are versatile and comfortable to wear, well matched for both everyday leisure activities and runs of all distances. They can be paired with luxury styles for a touch of maximalism or casual streetwear staples like jeans, cargos and track bottoms.


Brands Similar to Hoka 

Hoka is one of many new-wave performance footwear brands to challenge the dominance of Nike and adidas in the running space. It is frequently mentioned alongside other “disruptor” labels such as ON Running, Norda and Allbirds, as well as seasoned technical names like Brooks, Saucony and ASICS.


Hoka FAQ

When did Hoka start? 

Hoka was started in 2009. Co-founder Jean-Luc Diard formerly led innovation for Salomon as president of Salomon Design Center, and served as CEO of Salomon Group. Fellow co-founder Nicolas Mermoud also previously worked with Salomon.

Who started Hoka ?

Nicolas Mermoud and Jean-Luc Diard started Hoka. 


What does Hoka One One mean?

Hoka One One comes from the language of New Zealand's indigenous Maori people and loosely translates as "to fly over the earth." Mermoud and Diard have cited New Zealand’s rich adventure history as one of the inspirations behind the brand.

Where to buy Hoka ?

You can buy Hoka shoes on GOAT. Explore a selection of Hoka shoes here.

How to tell if Hoka is fake? 

GOAT uses machine-learning technology, digital authentication, in-hand verification or a combination of these methods to determine if sneakers are fake or real. By doing so, we seek to ensure the Hoka shoes you purchase are both authentic and as-described.