Utilitarian Style Undergoes a Brutalist Revision
Combining dystopian sensibilities with polished aesthetics.
After a year of slowly re-entering society, culture is ready to move beyond a life of sweatpants and hoodies. Enter a return to formalwear, and with it, a move towards a new vision of what is often seen as a staid, conservative space.
Dark, dystopian and marked by subtle stamps of subversion, the new tailoring reimagines full dress with a quiet, piercing edge. After all, we're living in an era in which apocalyptic imagination is almost indistinguishable from the everyday. In fashion, this vision takes the form of Y2K pop meets futurism and ’90s techno aesthetics, filtered through a TikTok lens.
One particularly strong accent in today’s polished dress redux is hardware detailing, noticeably present throughout the Fall/Winter 2022 runway circuit. DIY punk mixed with an undercurrent of Brutalism, these metallic embellishments distort otherwise utilitarian pieces.
Here, we curate our top styles from brands driving the movement forward.
Versace Safety Pin Leather Blazer 'Black'
Decades after Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren defined the original punk look at their infamous boutique Sex, a simple safety pin continues to send a clear statement. This leather Versace blazer looks to Gianni Versace’s Spring 1994 collection, which featured the iconic safety-pin dress worn by Elizabeth Hurley at the premiere of Four Weddings and a Funeral, reimagined in modern form for Fall 2021.
A-Cold-Wall* x Dr. Martens 1461 'Iced Black'
A-Cold-Wall*’s Samuel Ross has always had an affinity for dystopian fantasy in his streetwear and suiting. Now, he brings a somber, Brutalism-inflected eye to Dr. Martens’ 1461 oxford silhouette with an icy gray sole, white stitching and silver rivets.
Givenchy Small Antigona Crossbody Bag 'Black'
A bum bag dressed up and transformed into something sleek and refined, with an annexed safety pin lending the design a note of artful rebellion.
1017 ALYX 9SM Metal Buckle Suit Pant 'Black'
Matthew Williams is a master of merging the refined and the subversive. A classic, well-cut trouser at first glance, Williams’ standard industrial buckle—which takes its design from roller coaster seat belts—gives just enough utilitarian flair.
1017 ALYX 9SM x Air Force 1 High 'Black Wolf Grey'
Equal parts retro classic and Space Age redux, Williams’ take on the iconic Air Force 1 combines wolf-gray aluminum shading with his signature utilitarian buckle.
AMBUSH Small Padlock Earring 'Silver'
Yoon Ahn’s bold jewelry has always felt on the pulse of the zeitgeist, and this padlock earring—part punk, part fetish—is no exception. It’s an adornment that doesn’t call for any other accessorizing.
Jacquemus Le Collier Chiquita Necklace 'Gold'
Jacquemus’ miniature Chiquito bag dominated social media, editors’ selects and influencer pages from the second it dropped. Now, the Parisian designer translates the mini bag into a single charm on a gold-toned chain.
MCQ Pocket Blazer 'Darkest Black'
An archetypal navy blazer with a punk twist, a second look reveals circular hardware in place of standard zippers.
Jil Sander Nishan Techno Drill Pant 'Midnight'
No one does minimalism like Jil Sander, and these pleated trousers are all elegance with a dose of cold metal detailing. Pair them with basics for a coded uniform.
Bottega Veneta Sunglasses 'Crystal'
Bottega’s cat-eye specs take on the translucent eyewear trend with a glimmering addition of gold hardware. They’re a little extra, and why shouldn’t they be?
A-Cold-Wall* Woven Mackintosh Gilet 'Charcoal'
A charcoal vest bridging traditional tailoring with unexpected details—note the punctured holes and metal accents. It’s military precision meets a dark tinted future.
Rick Owens Zip Larry Shirt 'Black'
Decades since he changed global style forever, Rick Owens remains consistent in his tribal goth vision. This piece boasts the best of the designer’s dark eye, with exposed zippers adding a deconstructive edge to an otherwise artfully constructed shirt.