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Beginner's Guide to Air Jordan 4

Everything you need to know about Michael Jordan's fourth signature silhouette. From Tinker Hatfield's design inspiration to iconic colorways.

AUTHOR: GRAEME CAMPBELL UPDATED ON: June 26, 2024
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History of the Air Jordan 4


Tinker Hatfield created the Air Jordan 4 for Michael Jordan’s 1989 season with the Chicago Bulls. The silhouette enhanced Air Jordan’s credentials as the most illustrious sneaker series in the world, building on the success of the AJ3.

The Air Jordan 4 employed a lightweight Durabuck leather for the first time, while newly introduced details included breathable mesh netting at the forefoot, lateral and medial panels, supported with a “wings” lacing system. The oversized tongue helped keep the foot locked down, with a visible Max Air unit in the sole for cushioning and a herringbone-patterned outsole for traction.

For the first time, the word “Flight” appeared beneath the Jumpman logo. Memorably, MJ wore the ‘Bred’ colorway when he hit a game-winning shot against the Cleveland Cavaliers in the 1989 Playoffs.

Different Types of Air Jordan 4s


Unlike many other models in the Air Jordan series, the AJ4 is only offered in high-top form (it should be noted that the silhouette is sometimes described as a mid-top). Most releases come in full family runs, including mens, womens, kids, GS (Grade School) and PS (Pre-School) sizes.

Some Air Jordan 4s have been designed as Player Exclusives, produced for professional or collegiate athletes only and unavailable to the public. These rarefied shoes include 2019’s ‘March Madness’ pack, which saw athletes from the Universities of Michigan, Florida, North Carolina Chapel Hill, Oklahoma, Marquette and Georgetown receive Player Exclusives.

Best Air Jordan 4 Colorways


The AJ4 has served as a canvas for some of the most notable color stories in the wider Air Jordan series. Some of the best AJ4 colorways are outlined below.


‘Black/Cement’

MJ gave the wider world a first look at the AJ4 when he laced up a ‘Black/Cement’ pair at the 1989 NBA All-Star Game. Mirroring the rollout of the AJ3, Nike advertised the shoe with a halftime commercial featuring Spike Lee as his Mars Blackmon character.


‘White/Cement’

Part of the original AJ4 lineup, ‘White/Cement’ was first seen by Jordan fans in a 1988 Sports Illustrated magazine that pictured Nike CEO Phil Knight with both shoes. Famously, the shoe featured on the feet of the character Buggin’ Out (played by Giancarlo Esposito, aka Breaking Bad’s Gus Fring) in Spike Lee’s 1989 comedy-drama film, Do the Right Thing.


‘Military Blue’

Although part of the original lineup, MJ never wore the ‘Military Blue’ colorway on court. Despite this, it remains one of the most prestigious color stories in the entire Air Jordan franchise.


‘Fire Red/White/Black’

The last of the four original colorways to release at retail, ‘Fire Red’ made an appearance on the cover of rapper Ice-T’s “What Ya Wanna Do?” single.


‘Motorsports’

In 2006, Jordan Brand created a ‘Friends & Family’ colorway to commemorate the fourth anniversary of Mike’s motorsports racing team. The white, black and royal blue sneaker released to the public in 2017, shedding some minor affectations such as the Mars Blackmon heel logo that adorned the ’06 original.


‘Mars’

Jordan Brand released an updated version of the original ‘Fire Red,’ named ‘Mars,’ in 2006. Derived from the Mars Blackmon logo print that features on the sneaker’s side profile, the design cue caused consternation among Air Jordan fans at the time of its release. In 2012, another version of the colorway was released sans Mars Blackmon graphic.


‘Black Cat’

As its name suggests, the ‘Black Cat’ colorway is drenched in black from top to bottom. The only deviation comes on the tongue, where the Jumpman logo is rendered in graphite. 


‘Thunder’

Taking its name from the striking yellow accents that adorn the midsole, upper and support wings, ‘Thunder’ was released in 2006, 2012, and will release again in 2023. A red variation named ‘Red Thunder’ released in 2022 has furthered the color’s legacy.


‘Toro Bravo’

‘Toro Bravo,’ or “Raging Bull,” first landed on the AJ4 in 2013. The fiery shoe is dressed in an uncompromising crimson color scheme, contrasted by black, white and grey tones.


‘White Oreo’

Reminiscent of the original ‘Oreo’ Air Jordan 4 from 1999, the ‘White Oreo’ is updated with a white base, juxtaposed against speckled grey on the lace wings and midsole. Contrasting notes of Fire Red adorn the Jumpman logo on the tongue and outsole.


‘Military Black’

‘Military Black’ utilizes the same color-blocking style as 1989’s ‘Military Blue.’ Filtered through a monochrome lens, the colorway’s white base is contrasted with pops of black on the TPU wings, molded heel tab and Jumpman logo at the tongue. Grey suede adorns the forefoot overlay.


‘Purple Metallic’  

Jordan Brand launched the AJ4 Retro ‘Purple Metallic’ as part of a four-piece metallic pack in 2020. The sneaker is drenched in white and highlighted with hits of shiny purple on the molded eyelets, visible Air sole unit and exterior branding.


‘Cool Grey’ 

‘Cool Grey’ showcases an understated color. The neutral grey nubuck upper is joined to a white midsole housing a visible Max Air unit, while black details adorn the outsole and lace loops.


Popular Collaborations for Air Jordan 4s


Over the years, Jordan Brand has invited an expansive roster of creative collaborators to apply their signature design language to the Air Jordan 4. This has seen the shoe reimagined in unexpected colorways and styles. Below, a list of highlights.

Eminem x Carhartt 

Eminem has reworked Air Jordans on several occasions, the most notable being a monochromatic ‘Black Chrome’ AJ4 made exclusively for friends and family in 2015. The sneaker features the rapper’s signature reverse “E” logo and a Jason Voorhees mask at the heel.

Undefeated

The Undefeated x Air Jordan 4 marked the first-ever Jordan Brand collaboration, a pivotal landmark that would alter the path of the brand forever. Dressed in military green with strikes of orange, the color scheme was inspired by MA-1 flight jackets.

KAWS

Released in 2017, artist Brian “KAWS” Donnelly’s ‘Grey’ and friends and family-only ‘Black’ Air Jordan 4s feature minimal executions up top. Underfoot, each colorway comes to life with a translucent outsole that glows in the dark.

Union LA

Teased alongside ‘Guava Ice,’ Union LA's tongueless ‘Off Noir’ silhouette divided opinion among Air Jordan devotees. Nonetheless, both colorways became among the most coveted releases of 2020. The LA boutique followed up the collaboration with two new colorways in 2021, ‘Desert Moss’ and ‘Taupe Haze.’

Travis Scott

Travis Scott is a longtime fan of the AJ4, choosing the silhouette as his debut collaboration with Jordan Brand in 2018. Inspired by the colors of the now-defunct Houston Oilers, the sneaker opened the creative floodgates for a long-term creative partnership between the pair. 

Off-White x Wmns Air Jordan 4 SP 'Sail'  (2020)

Created in collaboration with Virgil Abloh’s luxury streetwear brand, the women’s AJ4 SP ‘Sail’ debuted on the feet of Erik Arteaga, who skated in an unreleased version of the shoe. The off-white colorway released in limited numbers in 2020, becoming one of the most sought-after releases of the year.

Paris Saint-Germain x Air Jordan 4 Retro 'Bordeaux' (2020)

With Paris Saint-Germain’s Jordan Brand partnership underway, the French club readied a full capsule collection to support the release of its “Bordeaux” kit. One of the standout items was an AJ4 Retro that reflected the ‘Bordeaux’ color story of the jersey, replete with subtle details such as “Paname” (a slang term for Paris) inscribed on the lateral forefoot.

A Ma Maniére x Air Jordan 4 Retro 'Violet Ore' (2022)

A Ma Maniére’s creative partnership with Jordan Brand blossomed throughout the 2020s. In 2022, the pair came together for a ‘Violet Ore’ rendition of the AJ4. Each shoe came with tongue tags displaying mismatched Jumpman and A Ma Maniére logos, with molded black heel tabs featuring a debossed Nike Air logo.



Air Jordan 4 FAQ

Who designed the Air Jordan 4?

The Air Jordan 4 was designed by Tinker Hatfield. The AJ4 was Hatfield’s second Air Jordan design, following the AJ3.

When did Air Jordan 4 first come out? 

The AJ4 debuted at the 1989 NBA All-Star Game and released to the public later that same year.

When is the next Air Jordan 4 release or restock? 

How do Air Jordan 4s fit? 

The Air Jordan 4 fits true to size. It is recommended to take your normal size.

What sizes do Air Jordan 4s shoes come in? 

The Air Jordan 4 comes in a full family run of sizes, including mens, womens, kids, GS (Grade School) and PS (Pre-School) sizes.

Are Air Jordan 4s comfortable?

The Air Jordan 4 is designed with Air cushioning in the midsole, making it a comfortable option for all-day wear.

What are Air Jordan 4s good for? 

Despite its performance origins, the Air Jordan 4’s technologies have been eclipsed by contemporary innovations. The shoe is suitable for recreational sports, but is now generally considered a lifestyle shoe.

What to wear Air Jordan 4s with? 

The Air Jordan 4 is a versatile silhouette that is typically worn with streetwear staples such as jeans, hoodies, sweatpants and tees. However, it can be worn with more elevated styles to bring a casual touch to formalwear.

How to clean Air Jordan 4s?

The Air Jordan 4 responds well to most specialist cleaning agents. For more information, consult our How to Clean Sneakers Guide.

Where to buy Air Jordan 4s?

You can buy Air Jordan 4s on GOAT. Explore a selection of Air Jordan 4s here.

How to tell if Air Jordan 4s are fake? 

GOAT uses machine-learning technology, digital authentication, in-hand verification or a combination of these methods to determine if sneakers are fake or real. By doing so, we seek to ensure the Air Jordan 4s you purchase are both authentic and as described.

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