Beginner's Guide to Diesel
From Renzo Rosso to Glenn Martens, a brief overview of the iconic Italian brand.
History of Diesel
Born to a farming family, the first item Diesel founder Renzo Rosso ever crafted with his hands was a pair of bell-bottom pants using his mother’s Singer sewing machine.
In the late 1970s, at just 20 years old, Rosso co-founded Diesel with the “Godfather of Denim,” Adriano Goldschmied. The name was inspired by mentions of diesel as an alternative energy source during the oil crisis of the time. This etymology highlights the brand’s disruptive DNA and its aim to bring a new perspective to the denim world. Rosso would change the jeans business forever, parlaying his success with Diesel into the Only the Brave holding group, which now owns brands like Jil Sander, Marni and Maison Margiela.
After Goldschmied left Diesel in the mid ’80s, Rosso—whose edgy designs took inspiration in part from used trousers at vintage markets—began enhancing the brand’s cultural cachet through provocative advertising campaigns. Iconic spots like “Monster Burger,” part of Diesel’s ‘Guides for Successful Living’ campaign, reflected the irreverent ethos of the MTV generation.
As Diesel grew, it launched stores around the world as well as various sub-labels (with the first being the snowboard-centric 55DSL in 1994). During the early 2000s, it became synonymous with the skinny, low-rise denim styles worn by the likes of Paris Hilton. As fashion succumbed to the denim revolution, Diesel’s status as one of the industry’s major players was cemented when Karl Lagerfeld’s Lagerfeld Gallery label teamed up with the brand for a fully realized denim line.
As Diesel evolved into a full-fledged lifestyle company, operating in everything from kidswear to homewares, denim remained at the core of its output. In 2013, former Mugler creative director and Lady Gaga stylist Nicola Formichetti was appointed artistic director, given carte blanche by Rosso to reboot the brand and reshape it in his vision. The partnership lasted four years, characterized by heavy Japanese and Italian influences in keeping with Formichetti’s background.
After the brand went through operational changes in the later part of the decade, Y/Project’s Glenn Martens took over as creative director of Diesel in 2020. The Belgian, who had already worked with Diesel on the Red Tag project alongside Shayne Oliver and Samuel Ross, garnered a reputation for tailoring, spiraling volumes, deconstructing and reconstructing garments, and applying historical references to streetwear. Debuting during the Spring/Summer 2022 season, Martens’ youthful energy helped return Diesel to the forefront of the cultural conversation, mining heavy Y2K influences and collaborations with figures such as Julia Fox.
Current Diesel Trends
A staple of Milan Fashion Week, Diesel perennially releases new statement items that help start wider trends. Below, some of the most recent.
Mini Skirt
Debuting in Martens’ third collection, the Diesel belt skirt became a viral phenomenon on TikTok. The hybrid design—part belt, part skirt—features the Diesel “D” logo with a velcro closure at the front.
Diesel 1DR Bag
Martens introduced the 1DR shoulder bag in Spring 2022 as a signature “It” bag. The revamped design is again highlighted by the Diesel “D” logo, offered in matte and mirror finishes. According to Martens, “The ‘D’ in itself reminds us of strength and possibilities.”
How to Style Diesel
Diesel remains true to its denim-centric provenance while experimenting with different categories such as streetwear, sportswear and luxury archetypes. The brand could be considered elevated casualwear, with its jeans ideal for dressing up or down. Under the direction of Martens, Diesel has leaned into more experimental territory and statement items, including conceptual garments for the first time ever.
Brands Similar to Diesel
Diesel is often considered the denim world’s enfant terrible, with its expressive sensibilities serving as a counterpoint to heritage brands like Levi’s, Wrangler and Lee (notably, Diesel collaborated with Lee on a capsule Spring 2024, itself considered a subversive act). Based on the outskirts of Venice, Diesel embraces its Italian heritage for inspiration and is often grouped with luxury peers. Its '90s appeal is frequently mentioned in the same breath as nostalgic ‘90s labels like True Religion.
Diesel FAQ
Who is the creative director of Diesel?
Glenn Martens is the current creative director of Diesel.
Who owns Diesel?
Diesel is owned by Renzo Rosso’s Only the Brave Group. Maison Margiela, Jil Sander and Marni are other brands owned by Only the Brave.
When did Diesel start?
Diesel started in 1978.
Who started Diesel?
Designer, entrepreneur and businessman Renzo Rosso started Diesel in 1978.
Where to buy Diesel?
You can buy Diesel on GOAT. Shop a selection of Diesel styles here.
How to tell if Diesel is fake?
GOAT uses machine-learning technology, digital authentication, in-hand verification or a combination of these methods to determine if Diesel items are fake or real. By doing so, we seek to ensure the Diesel items you purchase are both authentic and as-described.
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