The History of Vans, Told Through 12 Sneakers
How two brothers from California changed sneakers, skating and culture forever.
“Vans has always been about the community, culture and authenticity. Ask all the skate legends, artists and musicians they’ve worked with throughout the years," explains Bill Cruz, founder of celebrated Vans community Under the Palms. The story of Vans is a familiar one, rooted in a time of rapid cultural change that over the decades would go on to become a cross-generational phenomenon, spanning the athletes and creatives noted by Cruz.
In 1966, brothers Paul and Jim Van Doren set out on a simple mission: to create shoes for customers in California and sell them directly to the public instead of selling them wholesale to retailers. The Van Doren brothers, along with partners Gordon Lee and Serge Delia, officially opened for business on March 16 at 704 E. Broadway in Anaheim, California.
On their first day of business, Van Doren sold 12 made-to-order pairs of their #44 Deck Shoes, better known as the Authentic. Over time, Vans sneakers became an instant success within the skate community, thanks in large part to their vulcanized waffle soles. Beyond the skate community, the sneakers served as a source of self-expression due to their customization business model. The business boomed over the course of the next decade and by 1978, their product offering grew with the introduction of the Old Skool, Classic Slip-On, Sk8-Hi and Era models.
The Vans mission continued to evolve over the decades, setting their sights firmly on skateboarding in the '70s, sponsoring the Warped Tour in the '90s, and becoming a staple of street culture and sneaker collecting worldwide in the ‘00s.
From the Van Doren Rubber Company's California origins to its global meteoric rise, discover how Vans brought together the worlds of music, fashion and sports like no other, all while staying true to its core values.
1966
Vans Authentic 'Black'
Every brand has its foundational model and Vans is no exception. The Authentic, part of Vans' original lineup of shoes in 1966, states the brand’s intentions clearly, relaying the company’s mission to manufacture and distribute affordable, purpose-driven sneakers appropriate for California’s laid-back style.
Originally known as the Style 44, the Authentic was embraced by skaters in the early ‘70s, quickly becoming a cult favorite, a distinction that’s lasted as the silhouette’s popularity has exploded across cultures and generations. Today the Authentic remains accessible for all, spotted everywhere from West Coast skate ramps to European runways.
1976
Vans Era
Building on the foundation of the Authentic, the Era, originally known as the #95, added a padded ankle collar to the sturdy classic. Designed by skate pioneers Tony Alva and Stacy Peralta, the Era became the shoe of choice for a new generation of skaters, 10 years after the release of the Authentic.
The Era retains its simple sensibilities to this day, serving as a staple for consumers of all walks of life, while remaining revered by skateboarders thanks to its time-tested waffle sole.
1977
Vans Old Skool
In 1977, Vans released the Style 36, a new addition to the brand’s growing roster. Rebranded as the Old Skool decades later, the silhouette was the first Vans skate shoe to incorporate leather panels for increased durability. The sneaker was also the first to feature the jazz stripe, a random doodle by Paul Van Doren that would go on to become the unmistakable hallmark of the Vans brand.
The 2010s saw a renewed interest in the Old Skool, rightfully earning it a seat at the table next to the Air Jordan 1 and Converse Chuck Taylor as a transcendent classic. Like those silhouettes, the Old Skool brought cultures together, bridging the gap between hip-hop, fashion and skateboarding.
1977
Vans Slip-On
In 1977 Vans introduced the #98, a style later known as the Slip-On. Steve Van Doren outfitted the silhouette in a contrasting square pattern with the release of the 'Checkerboard' Vans Slip-On.
Pulling inspiration from DIY skate kids and adding elastic to the upper for a laceless look, the Slip-On set a new standard for style and culture, copied at all price points over the years from designer to discount. Even after decades of imitation, nothing touches the original.
1978
Vans Sk8-Hi
Released in 1978, the Vans Style 38 built on the success of the Style 36, offering an above-ankle alternative to the beloved low-top. Additional padding and paneling revealed the ingenuity of the California company, an early example of Vans’ ability to innovate on existing product while imbuing a sense of timelessness into every design.
Later rebranded as the Sk8-Hi, the silhouette enjoyed a hip-hop rebirth in the late 2000s thanks to bold color-blocking renditions and ongoing West Coast approval. Since those influential years, the Sk8-Hi has become a favorite beachside and inland, defying genres and transcending style.
1992
Vans Half Cab
As an original Bones Brigade member in the early ‘80s, Steve Caballero introduced basketball shoes to the wider skate scene. By 1989, Vans had scooped up the California prodigy and given him a signature shoe: the Caballero. By the early ‘90s the shoe game had changed drastically, with mid-tops enjoying a surge in popularity.
In true DIY fashion, Caballero cut his high-top signatures down to a mid and duct taped the ankles to prevent fraying. His sponsor caught notice and designed a retail-ready model to meet his new needs. Enter the Vans Half Cab.
Since debuting in 1992, the Half Cab has become an on-board favorite for high flyers like Caballero as well as a new era of fearless skaters. Today the Half Cab is regarded as a streetwear staple, serving as a canvas for the likes of Supreme, Bodega, WTAPS and more Vans collaborators.
2016
Fear of God x Vans Era 95 Reissue 'Marshmallow'
Jerry Lorenzo crafted Yeezys with Kanye West and created his own Fear of God silhouettes in partnership with Nike. When tasked with the mission to offer an even more accessible shoe, his pick for a partner was clear: Vans.
Working with the California company on a range of silhouettes, Fear of God’s ethos of instinct and conviction added a layer of dynamic energy. While a handful of styles from Lorenzo and Vans caused lineups at malls all over the country, the Era may be the collaboration’s most emblematic thanks to Lorenzo’s innate ability as a tastemaker, and its juxtaposition of a graphic font and subtle shades.
2016
Supreme x Sk8-Hi Pro 'Checkered Black'
Decades after the Van Doren brothers launched their eponymous brand in California, a British transplant named James Jebbia was gearing up to start his own venture in New York. Founded in 1994, Supreme helped shape the attitudes and aesthetics of the East Coast skate scene, trading the cluttered business of the era’s skate shops with a fondness for negative space more akin to a Downtown art gallery.
In the years since, both brands have earned international acclaim, collaborating frequently on Vans’ most iconic silhouettes. Putting their stamp on street culture—literally and figuratively—their 2016 Sk8-Hi collaboration merges Vans’ iconic checkerboard with Supreme’s unmistakable box logo perfectly, marrying arguably the two most recognizable entities in skateboarding.
2018
Comme des Garçons x Vans OG Authentic LX 'CDG Print - Blanc De Blanc'
If imitation is the highest form of flattery, then the Authentic is among the most complimented silhouettes of all time. Rooted in skateboarding, the Authentic has been impersonated by everyone, from luxury fashion houses to sportswear titans.
First collaborating in 2005 alongside Raf Simons and Colette, Comme des Garçons went straight to the source, partnering with Vans to keep the Authentic’s classic canvas fabrication, splashing signature ‘CDG’ branding all over the upper. The 2018 collaboration resulted in a statement staple, embracing counter culture by maintaining the integrity of the original while adding bold graphics from the Rei Kawakubo-led label.
2020
Notre x Vans Vault OG Old Skool LX 'Black'
Chicago-based Notre added a subtle but powerful twist to the Old Skool, working hand in hand with Vans to score the shoe in premium suede. Removing the midsole foxing accent, the collaboration took shape with Notre’s handshake motif embedded in Vans’ signature jazz stripe. The dual branding served as both a differentiator and unifier, adding another chapter to the timeless skate shoe’s history of blank canvas for creativity, which includes collaborations with Golf Wang, JJJJound, Supreme and many more.
2020
Fast Times x Vans Classic Slip-On 98 DX 'Anaheim Factory'
Since the beginning, Vans has allowed every wearer to make their shoes their own. Nowhere was this more apparent than in 1982 when Sean Penn, in his second feature film ever, played Jeff Spicoli in Fast Times at Ridgemont High, a lean stoner with a fondness for Vans Slip-Ons. Penn embodied the blazed honesty and humor of the stereotypical SoCal teen with his blonde hair, red eyes and checkered sneakers.
In 2020, Vans immortalized the scene, releasing an official collaboration that hit Spicoli’s style right on the nose, stamping the midsoles with the film’s unforgettable font. The partnership marks one of many notable entertainment collaborations, including Star Wars, The Simpsons, Harry Potter and more.
2020
Dime x Vans Half Cab Pro LTD 'Blue Marshmallow'
Montreal-based brand and boutique Dime made a name for themselves globally by putting their unique mark on understated streetwear and graphic decks. While unearthing cult classics in the collaborative footwear space, Dime dug up some of the most storied styles that have shaped skate history, eventually settling on the Half Cab, one of the longest-running signature models in the skate world.
Both Vans and Dime are synonymous for blurring the lines between skating and lifestyle culture, setting the bar high for storytelling and carrying the mid-top classic into the future.
Vans FAQs
How to clean white vans?
For more information, consult our How to Clean Sneakers Guide.
Do vans run big or small?
Vans sneakers run true to size.
Where to buy Vans shoes online?
You can buy Vans on GOAT. Explore a selection of Vans here.
Who owns Vans?
VF Corporation owns Vans.
What are the new Vans that came out?
Recent and upcoming Vans sneaker releases include: