From Rui Zhou to Bad Binch TONGTONG, meet the Chinese fashion designers redefining Eastern style on the world stage.

Each designer has a signature aesthetic. Zhou, who became known for her form-fitting bio-cut knitwear, explains, “We are a brand that explores the duality of all things, the relations between matters and beings, always in a more philosophical way. We always find beauty in the imperfection, the unfinished, broken or even unloved.” Zheng, who cut her teeth at Calvin Klein before breaking out on her own, uses innovative textiles like SeaCell, protein leather and Merino wool bonded nylon. She describes the DANZ aesthetic as, “smart, minimal chic.” Terrence Zhou of Bad Binch TONGTONG, who creates surrealist silhouettes, says the label’s look is “unconventional, daring.”&nbsp;

Gong Li of 8on8’s retro-futuristic sportswear merges classic tailoring with contemporary silhouettes. Phyllis Chan and Suzzie Chung of YanYan use deadstock or excess yarn from houses like <a href="https://www.goat.com/brand/chanel">Chanel</a> and The Row to create fun, joyful knitwear pieces. Windowsen makes whacky, sculptural, Y2K-inspired sportswear, while QiQi Yuan and BoChao Yuan of Buerlangma, create avant-garde and edgy looks. Wei Wang and Tian Shi of Marrknull and Louis Shengtao Chen are both semi-finalists for the 2023 LVMH Prize. Marrknull carries a <a href="https://www.goat.com/editorial/indie-sleaze-trend">Y2K raver aesthetic</a>, while Louis Shengtao Chen has a more feminine, vintage-meets-contemporary look.

Fashion design may not have been a viable career path for Chinese youth decades ago, but with fashion weeks in Beijing, Shanghai and Shenzhen, as well as countless fashion incubators across the country, more Chinese youth are seeing a future in the industry. “I was majoring in mathematics when I was in college, but I’ve always been interested in art and design,” says Terrence Zhou, the New York-based founder of Bad Binch TONGTONG. “At one point I realized that I needed to choose a career for myself, and I couldn't envision myself in academia, so I decided to transfer to Parsons for fashion.” DANZ founder Danica Zheng, who was born in China, raised in Singapore, and attended university in the United States, adds, “Working on a fashion project [during high school] made me realize how liberating designing for fashion was and that feeling stayed with me when I went to USC for architecture. I decided to transfer to Parsons at the end of the semester and never looked back!”

With platforms like Instagram providing a window to fashion outside of China, the local population is becoming more aware of the profession with each passing year. “Thanks to social media, people understand better what a fashion designer career is,” says Rui Zhou. “The older generation won’t fully understand it until you make it, but I’m glad my parents have been very supportive of what I’m doing.”
Similarly, early adoption by influential figures has become key to a brand’s success. Rui Zhou, whose designs have been worn by Dua Lipa and Solange, had stylists reaching out to her after coverage from her graduate show at Parsons. Lizzo and Olivia Rodrigo have both been spotted in Bad Binch TONGTONG, but its designer, Terrence Zhou, takes a more laid-back approach. “I don’t overthink dressing celebrities,” he says. “I just keep creating and they reach out—then magic happens.”&nbsp;

Chinese fashion designers choosing strategic places to base their businesses has also helped spread their work around the world. Rui Zhou relocated her brand to New York, where she also attended graduate school, after being based in Shanghai. Terrence Zhou said it was “a personal choice” to base his brand in the American metropolis. “I live in New York with my family and I am more involved in all things New York. My business partner lives in China and she takes care of the business in Asia,” says Terrence. Gong Li, meanwhile, is based in Shanghai, enabling him to take quick trips to Japan to meet with <a href="https://www.goat.com/brand/asics">ASICS</a>, one of the brands 8on8 collaborates with regularly.

Discrimination, however, remains one of the biggest challenges for emerging Chinese fashion designers. “The identity of being a Chinese designer has always been marginalized in the Western world,” says Terrence Zhou. “I just feel that, as an Asian designer in America, we’re not given very good opportunities […] If nobody’s giving me that great opportunity, I’m going to create it myself.” Rui Zhou agrees, saying the biggest challenge being a Chinese fashion designer is “fight[ing] the uphill battle of stereotypes.” Zheng has a different perspective. “I feel that New York in itself has such a diverse environment and in general everyone has been very open minded and supportive,” she says.
What’s clear across the board is the undeniability of each designer’s sheer talent. Spreading through social media, editors, stylists and the wider cultural zeitgeist, these names and many more are shifting the narrative around Chinese fashion, bridging East and West in pursuit of singular identities created from global experiences. Each season only brings this vision into sharper focus.

10 Chinese Designers Making Waves Around the Globe

How one hair salon’s psychedelic designs embody a new creative energy in Taichung's Nantun district. 

Discover OOO-ing Studio, a hair salon embodying a new creative energy in Taiwan through psychedelic designs and client collaborations.

Categories

Collections

Featured Brands

Upcoming Releases