The Unlikely Rise of the Dad Sneaker
How once 'uncool' silhouettes transcended function to become a favorite of fashion, from Raf to Yeezy.
For decades, dads were better known for cracking corny jokes than being purveyors of style. That all changed in the 2010s as the Tumblr trend known as 'Normcore' shone a light on the chunky function over flashier styles of years past.
From the Jason Mayden-designed Nike Air Monarch to Demna Gvasalia's stacked-up Balenciaga Triple S, the term 'Dad Shoe' ranges from low profile to high fashion. The craze has attracted admirers from Raf Simons to Kanye West, setting the bar for takes from the likes of Nike, New Balance, adidas, Versace and more.
Adidas Yeezy Boost 700 'Wave Runner'
Kanye West is well-versed in both parenting and sneakers. However, when it came to designing his first Dad Shoe he had to call in the godfather of the style: Steven Smith.
Adding the industry vet to his already loaded Yeezy roster, West and Smith spawned the adidas Yeezy Boost 700. Taking the good genes of adidas EQT favorites, Boost and the Yeezy name, Smith’s wisdom regarding sturdy runners proved to be a perfect pairing. By mixing mesh, suede and stability, Kanye and Smith created an instant hit.
A$AP Rocky, Playboi Carti and Virgil Abloh all bow to Raf Simons with a reverence you’d only offer to a true icon. Back in the early 2010s when working with adidas, Simons proved two steps ahead by bringing back chunky trail runners when his peers were stuck on street goth and cheetah print.
The most revered of these were his paneled pairs of Ozweego collabs. Originally launched in tones that ranged from earthy to academic, the ‘90s favorite went sci-fi by 2019 in a mirrored makeup.
Alexander McQueen Oversized Sneaker
Since Alexander McQueen’s passing in 2010, the daring designer known to draw beauty from dark spaces has continued to prove a shining light to the industry. While the McQueen label’s exaggerated take on tennis’ most famous signature shoe, the adidas Stan Smith, might not possess the late creative’s obvious edge, it does carry a left-of-center normalness that’s creepy, classic and compelling all at once.
Kiko Kostadinov x ASICS Gel Kayano 14
If Dad Shoes had a credo, it would be function over fashion, an approach embodied for years by the ASICS Gel Kayano 14. High on performance and unseeking in attention, the shoe leaned into its underbelly of tech when remixed by Kiko Kostadinov. Going designer and going the distance, this 2020 update to the 2008 favorite brought the sneaker from the suburbs to the streets of London Fashion Week.
Balenciaga Triple S Sneaker 'Blue Red' 2018
The titular letters of the Balenciaga Triple S stand for 'triple sole,' signifying the three stacked soles that define this shoe.
Shedding the streamlined looks of previous heavy hitters from the Parisian house, Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia debut the chunkiest, funkiest trainer either hemisphere had ever seen. Pre-aged, this Demna design takes inspiration from all phases of a sneaker’s life.
The Gucci Rhython Leather is equal parts irony and inheritance, with throwback sidewall branding as unashamedly showy as it gets.
Diving into ‘90s nostalgia in regard to cut and construction, an Italian leather upper reads traditional trainer while a thick midsole gives new meaning to the phrase 'power walk.' An instant hit, this shoe balances bootleg cheekiness with top-shelf craftsmanship.
For decades, the New Balance 900 series was as respected and value-validated as any line on the market. How could such a worthy line of Dad Shoes prove any more functional to the fathers who swore by them? By adding extra TPU support. In a move backed by safety and science, the New Balance 990v5 earned its extra notation by adding an extra piece of plastic alongside the ankle on the upper.
A purveyor of function over fluff, tech titan Steve Jobs lived in another world of innovation but spoke to the everyman through his outfits. With his signature black turtleneck custom made by Japanese designer Issey Miyake, Levi’s 501 blue jeans and grey New Balance 992s, the Apple frontman was in the business of basics.
Martine Rose x Nike Air Monarch IV
Chasing the Dad Shoe trend and tasked to make it even more ironic, London-based designer Martine Rose reimagined the Monarch by placing the shoe’s Middle American upper on a sole half its size. The result was a protruding look that spills over, a high-fashion foray into the codes of fatherhood.
Stussy x Nike Air Zoom Spiridon Caged 2
Before making trips with Kanye to Yeezy Campus in Wyoming, Steven Smith was designing Nikes focused on function. The Air Zoom Spiridon Caged 2 fell in that category, catering to comfort through fit.
A decade and a half after its debut, streetwear OG Stussy showed their wisdom by refining Smith’s sharp sneaker with neutral normcore tones.
Simple, standard and safe to walk in, the basic Reebok Club C 85 got a remix courtesy of Tumblr titan JJJJound and his signature stylings. Leaning into the mood, the Montreal creative added quiet contrast by way of neutral trim and terry cloth lining.
Released as a collaboration with hip-hop artist 2 Chainz and designer Salehe Bembury, this Versace Chain Reaction 'Tartan' colorway features a cupped insole meant to increase comfort and lateral movement. Unveiled at Versace’s 2018 Fall/Winter runway show during the Milan Men’s Fashion Week, this chunky silhouette is one of the most statement-making takes on the Dad Shoe yet.
WRITER: IAN STONEBROOK
RISE OF THE DAD SNEAKER
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