First Looks: FW22
Backstage at the Fall/Winter 2022 shows of emerging and established designers.
Fall/Winter 2022 saw New York, London, Milan and Paris showcase the latest collections from emerging and established designers. Individually, each collection explored a specific theme, from the otherworldly aesthetic presented by AMBUSH to Jun Takahashi’s baroque interpretation of punk at UNDERCOVER. Seen together, the FW22 shows shed a light on style in a pandemic-weary world, expressing cautious optimism through creative experimentation.
Here, backstage shots from the FW22 season moments before they made their runway debut, as captured by Alex “Très Cool” Dobé, Eva Al Desnudo and Seinosuke Tanaka.
Yoon Ahn brought her futuristic vision to life at AMBUSH’s Milan Fashion Week debut. Against the backdrop of a giant glowing sphere and a soundtrack of white noise, Ahn demonstrated her command of metalwork through chainmail vests and dresses, while the label’s jewelry roots were visible in the form of sculptural earrings and bracelets.
At Marni, Francesco Risso sent models down the runway in frayed and deconstructed silhouettes. Patchwork balaclavas and head wraps complemented the artistic direction, reflecting the collection's theme of unity and contrast. Shrunken knitwear clashed against oversized tailoring. Denim jackets and jeans were slashed haphazardly, while dresses featured precise cut-outs and asymmetric slits.
Feng Chen Wang FW22 wasn’t exempt from this treatment, with clothes taken apart and reconstructed as unisex silhouettes. Denim pieces followed a similar aesthetic, irregularly assembled with unaligned seams. The collection's color palette drew inspiration from bodiless lacquerware, a historic technique native to Wang’s hometown in Fujian province, while newly introduced phoenix motifs paid homage to the designer’s Chinese heritage.
Glenn Martens brought his signature sensibilities to Y/Project FW22. As Jean Paul Gaultier's latest couture collaborator, the Belgian designer outfitted puffers, knits, suits and more with some of Gaultier’s most iconic prints. Denim also featured heavily throughout, a reference to Martens' recent appointment as Diesel's new creative director.
Jonathan Anderson questioned the nature of reality at Loewe by highlighting the beauty in imperfection. Shoes made to look like leather bags reflected both Anderson's whimsical design language and the collection's overarching theme. Textures were thoughtfully considered, from patterned knits and shearling fabrics to trompe l’oeil mesh.
Jun Takahashi presented a study in contrasts for UNDERCOVER Fall 2022, juxtaposing oversized safety pins with a generous use of tartan and a range of formalwear. The designer’s distinct brand of punk was visible in 1920s pinstripe tailoring and sheer lace turtlenecks. Fringed hearts adorned dresses, while gold zips accented monochromatic designs.